Loctite 620 on an AR?

Would you bed a thermal-fit receiver with Loctite?

Do you also thermo fit the barrel on top of the loctite?

When you put the barrel in the reciever. Do you torque on the barrel nut right away?

the manufacture states primer is required with 620. what do you think Chad?

I’m not trying to be that guy because you know what you’re doing, but it looked like you were using a knife sharpening wet stone for your gas key? Have you tried using a small slab of granite and polishing compound? I am a diesel mechanic by trade so I rebuild hydraulic pumps and motors and that’s what I use for lapping parts. and yes, I have put my starrett machinist straight edge on it and checked it with Feeler gauges. And the few local hydraulic shops that I use literally do the same thing. Like I said, in the beginning of this comment, I’m not trying to be “ that guy” i’m just trying to share some information that you may have not known

I dunno man… I'm still not feeling this bedding talk…

Anyone here know how to remove a barrel from an ar that’s been bedded with loctite 620 lol

The heat range max for loctite 620 is 450°F and that's what had kept me from using it for bedding my barrel.

How do I remove it? Have a barrel bedded with 620 and it's shot out. Just heat and beat? Or some other trick

Question. What are your thoughts on using 620 on a gas block/gas block journal? Gas tube? My main concern is the inability to clean the excess if it gets in the gas port.

Thanks for the awesome and educational videos!

May sound crazy but could you use loctite 620 for ar15 gas block to barrel, for insurance against leaks?
Obviously installing the gas block as normal with the usual set screws or taper pin.

I feel like a fool it was recommended from LaRue Tactical use 620 on the LaRue Tactical stealth Barrel threads for my suppressor muzzle brake from silencerco.
I got it shimmed up to where I thought it should be in allowed a little bit of room for torque so I applied the 6:20 compound threaded the brake on about halfway turned around to get my foot pound foot pound ratchet which took less than 20 seconds and whenever I tried to turn the muzzle device it was very hard to turn and before I can make it to where the muzzle device was perfectly flush and even it was Rock Solid.
Loctite claimed they had a 60 minute set time but in my experience just now it was a 40-second set time.
With the shims I am just a smidge off from being level on the muzzle brake if you weren't paying attention you probably wouldn't even notice that it was a little crooked.
My concern is whether or not when I put my can on if it's going to cause a baffle strike in the end from being slightly off the center axis if the shoulder doesn't meet up with the muzzle brake well enough.
Not sure if I can just wait until I get my can out of jail and put it on and run a clean Rod up through the door and Center it the best I can in the back of my action and see if there's any run out or not.

I feel like im fine like there's enough contact between the 90° on the barrel the shims and the 90° on the muzzle brake but I'm anal about this kind of thing and I feel like I might be overthinking it LOL.

As a little side note I know it's making contact with the shims because I can't even budge them which is what leads me to believe they are probably making full contact with both 90° surfaces therefore leveling the muzzle brake to the bore.

The Loctite 620 is insanely expensive.
Smallest bottle is like $27 and probably wouldn’t be enough to do one barrel.
The more parts I buy to complete this home build of mine along with the proper tools the more I wish I had bought a complete reputable upper.
I cannot believe how much money I now have into this thing

Question cause I hadn’t imagined retaining fluid for High Heat applications. I use the general purpose 680 compound and to release the compound you apply heat. How do you release the the bond with the high heat 620? Gonna at a bottle of 620 to my top bench.
Thank you in advance and this video definitely made me a new subscriber.

Chad, could you share with us which stone and grit you use for carrier keys? I can only find 1/2” blocks from Brownells and the such. Thanks in advance for any assistance.

Also on gas block journals. 🤌

Would it make any sense to use 620 between the gas block and barrel; is it too hot or do the curved surfaces inherently seal well enough that it isn't necessary? Gas tube into the gas block?

On a similar note, what about bedding an optic mount to the rail? That interface is as important as any for precision.

Because you tube is communist

Love your vidoes…..Is it ok to use an EP grease on the barrel extension if you plan on changing out the barrel some day? or is it better to consider one and done? Basically use a brand new upper with the new barrel?

These shorter videos are great and packed with valuable information. Thanks for doing these.

I started to use this for bedding my barrels. Hard to tell is effectiveness but glad to see others, that know more than me, doing it.

620 for the screws on the safety , mag release …?

@sotar what adhesive would you use for optics mounts? I used blue loctite and the screws still keep coming loose.

What did the armorers use in the 1960s when they built these rifles? Did they have the array of chemicals we have?

I normally us aeroshell instead of this would I be better using this then?

😊 620 is a good thing

I was recommended to use Loctite 680 on barrel extensions by Mike at Criterion. Is there a difference between 620 vs 680?

Works great to secure FSB’s when using set screws instead of taper pins.

Why 620 over 609?

I believe this is the stuff that BCM uses on their low profile gas blocks. They use high temp red loctite on the set screws and retaining compound betweenthe barrel and gas block.

It might not be "permanent", but it is a pain to break free. I seen people need to hold a torch on it for at least a couple minutes.

I needed to replace a barrel and was reusing the barrel nut sp i needed to pull the gas block off the old barrel. Holding a torch to a barrel and gas block for two whole minutes as not being good for the barrel. It could overheat the steel to the point it loses temper. I used a heat gun as a less intense heat source, to see if it would work. It took over ten minutes holding 600-700 degree heat on the gas block to get it to start coming loose.

I really like these short form videos on specific topics. I can binge watch them, or go find specific information later easily.

This has been the best start to a new week in LARGE part to all the SOTAR videos! Thank you guys for all the work you put into getting these out, absolutely love them! 🤙🏻

must say ive never thought about using loctite as a fay seal

It may not be worth the effort but there is a way to true the sharpening stones via fine abrasive cabide sand and a thick glass platten. Granite surface plates would work but I wouldn’t want to risk damaging the surface.
Another method is to true the concave surface by using another stone.

Loctite sells an activator if you are a pro and need to save time. Sotar thug life. Hi Tem, Hi Rudy.

I've never had the opportunity to throw SOTAR so many likes in one day! 😎

You have a years worth of videos out today. Much appreciated!

Stellar info friend!