Home Nikon One Of The BIGGEST Scope Mounting MISTAKES

One Of The BIGGEST Scope Mounting MISTAKES

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In this video, Randy Newberg shares one of the biggest scope-mounting mistakes that people make and how you can avoid doing the same. He shares a product that he found that has made this process a lot simpler and fool-proof.

People often without knowing it don’t have a perfectly level reticle when they mount their scope. This may not seem like a huge deal under 100 yards, but as your range extends the cant of the crosshair is going to cause a more and more dramatic problem upon impact.

It’s very important to maintain a perfectly level cross hair vertically and horizontally. Randy is mounting new Leupold Optics scopes on his signature Howa rifles, and shows his process so that you can be ready to go in the field.

Real Avid Level Right Pro:
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Real Avid Torque Wrench:
Leupold Ring Wrench:

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30 COMMENTS

  1. This is kind of misleading. If the reticle itself is canted within the scope body, your turrets will pull you out of line if you adjust as well. I level by the reticle as well, but if you see that your turrets are out of whack after you square the reticle to your bore, you most likely have a defect in your scope.

  2. The problem with leveling a rifle in a vise is that all of them tighten down on the rifle and level at the same time. Usually, when you tighten the level is constantly changing. Ideally, these should be two separate operations. Get good and tight first and then level.

  3. Might want to look at the Parabola LLC Reticle-Tru also. It's only one piece of equipment and the big advantage is that you don't have to worry about leveling the rifle first. But the device Newberg is demonstrating should also be good.

  4. So, once the scope is level would it be ok to attach a anti-can’t bubble level to the optic once everything is set? Just to make sure that you have the rifle level before taking that shot? Or waste of time and money? Thanks!

  5. I have the wheeler kit with the barrel level and another normal level, can I trust my weaver scope base to be a baseline for leveling? and should I remove the turret to get the most even area to measure off? I don’t want to ruin my new $349 diamondback tactical.

  6. Ok, but none of that means anything if you're not holding your rifle level when you're out in the field. At least I didn't see a attached field level bubble on your rail, stock, or scope….. so what do you do in the field… guess ??

  7. I don't put my scope on square to the rifle. When I shoulder my rifle it's not square. I level my reticle plumb to where I shoulder the gun. On a bench rifle I do it square to the rifle.

  8. He isn't very good at that. Every situation is awful different a lot of rifles don't have a flat spot. I use a laser level tool from leica that cabinet makers used to keep cabinets level as a plumb line. The scope was levelled 1st off the rifle put on the rifle and then double checked for accuracy.

  9. Did you level the floor, table and Tipton to make sure? Table could be slanted, causing the vice and therefore the bubble to be off on the rifle. Just sayin..

  10. As a retired Nuclear Instrument Tech, proper torqueing should be done in quarter increments. For 30 inch pounds, screws should be evenly torqued in a crisscross pattern at 7.5, 15, .5 and finally at 30in/lbs. This is how we were/are trained to torque items in nuclear power. Very good video Mr. Randy.

  11. I would have leveled the reciever after mounting the bottom scope bases by putting two levels on the bottom scope bases. It looks like the contact points on the level to the reciever is very short. You want the distance between the contact points on the level to be as long as possible. In the video, it appears you are adjusting the level, not the receiver, in making the receiver level. Also, I would hang a plumblob to align the scope's crosshair.

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