Home AR-15 2/2 Building a Precision AR 15 at Ready Gunner – Upper Assembly

2/2 Building a Precision AR 15 at Ready Gunner – Upper Assembly

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This is video #2 of our latest AR-15 build series at Ready Gunner in Provo, Utah with owner – Neal Curry. At Ready Gunner anyone can come in, pick out their parts and build their own AR-15 or customize one they already own.

Here we will cover the complete assembly of the upper receiver of this 18″ Precision AR-15 Special Purpose Rifle.

This video includes…
– Intro to Ready Gunner and owner Neal Curry
– Review of the parts selected for this build
– Building the lower

Check out video #2 which covers
– Building the upper
– Assembling the rifle.

Parts List
Seekins Precision SP223 GEN2 BILLET LOWER LOGO
Timney Targa 2 Stage Straight Trigger
Ergo Tactical Deluxe grip
Luth-AR MBA-3 Stock
18″ White Oak Armament 223 Wylde 1:7 twist barrel
15″ Troy Alpha Rail with squid grips
Fortis Muzzle Brake
Rifle Length Gas Tube
Seekins Adjustable Gas Block
AXTS Charging Handle
AXTS safety selector

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26 COMMENTS

  1. Gonna be the "critical internet comment guy". They take the time to mention setting up the receiver in an appropriate vise block to safely torque on the barrel to avoid receiver flex, and then proceed to drive the gas tube roll pin with the gas block slid on the far end of the barrel. That's definitely something to avoid. Do it on the bench with the gas block braced in a jig or other appropriate fixture.

  2. If I can offer a little help. There is a formula for adding a wrench to your torque wrench to make the wrench accurate. When you add 8 inches of wrench it is no longer 30 FT LBS. of torque. Such as torquing the buffer tube. Also. You can make your life a bunch easier if you get a set of Roll Pin Punches for driving the roll pin into the gas block. For only building one rifle it wouldn't be worth the cost, ( maybe $25.00 dollars), but if your going to do a lot of rifle builds it's a really handy set of punches to have. They are made especially for installing roll pins. I learned a few things as well. Thanks for the great video.

  3. Internet dudes claim that there is a worry that there will be galvanic corrosion between the aluminum receiver and the conductive anti-seize dope on the steel barrel nut. If there is truth to that, it would probably only be relevant on Guadalcanal and Okinawa etc. I'm sure your SPR is safe. The only mistake that I saw was the orientation of the torque wrench. The armorer's wrench should be at a 90 degree angle to the t wrench or you are adding length to your applied force which throws off your measurement. Again, only an issue if you are reaching the top end of your allowable torque. Really wish I could shoot with you guys!

  4. So the barrel in youre gun and this gun is the same? And is it the SPR/SDM barrel that White Oak sells. And if so they had one fluted, would it be a better barrel or at least as good? I'm building one and might buy this barrel.

  5. I get the impression this is coltons very first rifle? make sure you teach that boy the fundamentals of marksmanship…I'm confident he's in good hands haha and this rifle will probably make him look good regardless haha. Beautiful build

  6. I was always taught the exact opposite when it comes to using a torque wrench. You're supposed to offset whatever tool you attack it to 90 degrees because it keeps the length the same thus giving you an accurate torque reading. When you attach it in line you're effectively adding length to the torque wrench, as opposed to torquing in parallel, and you throw off the measurement. By offsetting the tool 90 degrees from the handle of the torque wrench, you negate the offset/ gained leverage. This is the first time I've ever heard someone say keep the wrench and tool in line. I saw him do it in the first video with the castle nut and I just thought he didn't care because it was the castle nut, but here he was talking about it. I don't want to be one of those "internet guys" you were talking about, I'm just a bit confused now.

  7. A note on the anti seize vs aeroshell lube on barrel but. The standard automotive anti seize is very messy and not an easy clean up. IF you do use it apply very sparingly or you'll be cleaning that stuff off of everythingHaving used both I can say they will each get the job done, the aeroshell is just a cleaner lube to work with. Hoping to come out for a shoot this summer. Thanks for the upload.

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