The T.REX Lower Parts Kit is a bare-bones kit that doesn’t come with a trigger guard, grip, or a fire control group. We prefer these kinds of kits because they allow us to choose our parts based on our preferences instead of swapping out the parts we don’t like and ending up with unnecessary spares that pile up over time. This kit is made for us by Schmid Tool, has no MIM parts, and meets or exceeds Mil-spec standards.
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Is this the furry porn guy?
How much you want for it
I like to hold the pivot detent down with an rmr sealing plate haha
Gator tape?
Did he install the hammer pin backward?
🇺🇸💙🇺🇸 sending hug with love"Sir"
Seriously worry more about showing us then being in the video why you talk
Any advice on a complete lower to match with a BCM upper? All BCM lowers are sold out in the world apparently.
While the disconnector and bolt catch plunger springs are similar, they are different. Particularly, the disconnector spring is wider on the bottom end than the top, if you put this in recess for the bolt catch spring, it is entirely possible it binds and catches in the hole, removing tension on the plunger and bolt catch itself which will cause issues with cycling, feeding, lockback, etc. Don't mix them up.
For those who cant handle taking 2 seconds to check the website, the parts kits are made by schmid.
That grimacing look of his mouth whilst he is beating stuff with his purse, tells it all ! Man is dedicated!
$50 is frankly overpriced for this parts kit. Little yo no mention of where these parts are sourced and this is hardly an upgrade over a typical milspec parts kit that comes with a ambi safety. Youd be better off buying a lower parts kit for $25 and then catching a radian talon on sale for $30 and then you'll be miles ahead.
Do the safety and grip last and level the two ears of the lower with the lower flat surface of the receiver extension. Use an automatic centering punch for staking.
We already know how to put it together. Tell us that the pins are USGI, not dimpled or nitrided or any BS. Tell us that the selector is ambi with a short right arm, etc…
@trexarms You should have a QR code on the packaging that links to this video or an install video on your site.
feels like a missed opportunity, bolt hold open should've had a larger bottom, milspec bolt hold open is garbage
Claw Hammer time!
For some reason, he didnt show the spring that goes in first when installing the front pivot pin. So anyone new, a spring goes in that lil hole then the detent then the TD pin
I like keeping "oops kits" with my ARs
When it comes to the bolt catch installation; if using a USGI FCG, install the FCG first and use the hammer to keep the bolt catch from moving around. Makes for a stupid easy installation of the bolt catch….
I can hear the nay-sayers now “BuT iT dOeSn’T wOrK”; yes it does. I’ve used this method a lot, because being lazy makes some things easier. Not having to use your third hand to hold the bolt catch is really helpful
Off topic question; other than length, what's the diff between the Trex Arms "lightbar" and the Arisaka Inline scout mount? Specifically, why Shouldn't the inline mount be used to cantilever the scout light. Much thanks of this gets answered!
Does anyone have an idea what company makes those punches he is using? The ones with an O-Ring around the punch to protect the lower? Thanks!
Who and where are your lpk’s made?
Is it made in house or outsourced? Standard mil spec or stainless upgraded springs etc?
FYI for all the new people. During the installation of the first pivot pin that he installed, you will one day send that detent and spring into space it will fall into the Bermuda triangle never to be seen again. My suggestion is to have extras until your skills are honed.
I really don't get why people hide serial numbers on firearms in videos. Somebody explain why that's necessary.
Snagging some lower parts kits and a few BCG's before Colorado passes this weapons ban.