Home CMMG How To Install A Geissele Mk14 & Mk13 MLOK Handguard (HD)

How To Install A Geissele Mk14 & Mk13 MLOK Handguard (HD)

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I go over the installation of the Geissele Mk14 hand guard on an already assembled AR-15 but the same process will work when building an AR-15 from parts.

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37 COMMENTS

  1. I Have to replace the upper receiver on a URGI. intimidated, something about messing w Geissele barrel nut/feed ramps gas alignment. Etc. Haven’t seen it done. The rear take down post cracked! Anyone know of an instructional vid on that?

  2. I actually had to tap my URG-I rail on with a hair of love- nothing serious. I installed the barrel nut on that came with the rail, loosened the detent screws that align with the grooves on the barrel nut, ensured the set screws were backed all the way out, and it still wouldn't slide on. I installed it in Indiana in September, and we did have an unusually cooler night (low – mid 60's) so I'm wondering if that caused the rail to shrink??? Idk.

  3. That torque wrench needs to be 90 degrees to the adapter. You're actually torquing beyond 40 inch-pounds since you've lengthened the arm the distance between the 1/2 inch torque wrench terminator and the actual application point of torque at the end of the adapter. Granted, the torque spec for barrels is a large range, but this is an important aspect of using a torque wrench that I see too many people ignoring or unaware of.

  4. Just got my MK4, instantly my new favorite hand guard. The dessert dirt color is beautiful! Install is so easy since theres no timing of the gas tube. My only complaint is I had to purchase the barrel nut wrench separately.

  5. I just put together a mk4 with carbine length gas tube but the barrel but is so long that it hits knocking the alignment off. I’m contemplating grinding it down because I can’t find any info on a gas tube that’s bent more forward so it doesn’t hit.

  6. Planning a somewhat high end upper for my "go-to" rifle. I'm just putting this here for anyone to give any opinions or input on my planned upper.

    My goal here is a lightweight but very durable, reliable, tough weapon that could last for a very long time without worrying about any of the parts having issues.

    Upper receiver – Debating between a few options

    – Faxon enhanced light weight trued upper with forward assist and dust cover
    – Vltor MUR
    – BCM assembled upper
    – Aero precision m4e1 threaded upper (the version that works with regular handguards not the one designed for their handguards.)

    Barrel – Daniel defense 14.5" CHF LW mid-length with .750 gas block (22 oz stripped)

    Handguard/Gas block – Geissele MK14 m-lok 13" handguard with super gas block (will have barrel dimpled then the gas block pinned by ADCO)

    Gas tube – who cares really but a spikes stainless steel and nitrided tube

    Muzzle device – VG6 epsilon slim (under .750 so I could still remove the gas block and handguard even with muzzle device pinned (Will be pinned and welded by adco when sent in for the gas block install and barrel dimpling.

    BCG – as of now probably just a Toolcraft nitride BCG from Cryptic with the carpenter 158 bolt

    Charging handle – Geissele airborne ambi handle

    Iron sights – Magpul mbus pro

    Optic/Mount – Trijicon TA-50 (3×24) 5.56 BDC reticle with midwest qd mini acog mount (This optic/mount combo fits the theme of lightweight. Combo would only weight in at 8.3 oz)

    Light – Surefire m300c 500 lumen light with arisaka offset m-lok scout mount.

  7. Maybe this is just an automotive thing but coming from building cars, it’s a no-no to add thread protector to a thread that has specific torque specs. Hence why you generally never see thread protector on wheel lugs or suspension components. Is the barrel nut just not that big of a deal to be off it’s torque specs? Just making sure before I finish my own build. Thanks bud

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