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Allows for quick and accurate resetting of any sights, and extra batteries (six in total) all included.
Caution: Avoid direct eye exposure to beam; Fits any .22 to .50 caliber rifles, handguns, and scopes.
Simply choose the caliber adapter and place the laser unit in the muzzle. Windage and elevation adjustable; Long sighting range; Light weight and durable; Tools, four adapters.
Max. Output Power less than 5mW; Weight 38g; Material Aluminum; Length 155 mm; Length of rod that fits in the barrel: 60mm – 90mm (tapered).
Class IIIA Laser, 5mW or Less. Head Diameter: 16mm; Tail Diameter: 5mm; Laser wavelength 635-655nm; Laser Color Red; Power 3x AG13 batteries
Specifications:
Red Sight
Class: IIIa
Range; 50-100m/Length: 155mm
Maximum Output Power: ≤ 5 mw
Wavelength: 625~660nm
Head Diameter: 16mm
Tail Diameter: 5mm
All Aluminum Construction
Windage and elevation adjustable
T6010 High class aluminum alloy in beautiful black matte
Four bore adjustable adapters to fit all 0.22-0.5 caliber
Screws already are set in the factory when center aligning
In Package:
1×boresighter
2× allen wrenches
6×AG13 Battery
Great if you don't mind the rubber coming off in the bore of your .308, yes it did and it was murder to remove, BIN…
Had to align my bore sight, secure gun and put the bore sight in and rotate it (make sure the bore sight is snug in the end of the barrel) The laser dot should NOT draw a circle on the target. Aligning with the 4 hex grub screws can be frustrating…
How much?
Those bore collimators are not ment to be used for final sighting in, they are ment to be used for PRE-ZEROING. The final sighting in happens only with live rounds. First you set the collimator on the bore ( after you have followed the instructions and calibrated the collimator itself ) and turn the rifle so the laser hits the bonzai of the target. Then you look through the scope and bring the reticle on targets bonzai too. Then you remove the bore collimator and with live rounds you make the final sighting in at the distance you normally shoot. You are done. This way also you elliminate the effect that happens from a certain distance and beyond that the bullet/pellet should hit under the bonzai but it hits above it.
You maybe also use scope mount insert adjusters to help get the reticle crosshair closer to the laser point, which may help to get more use from the elevation and windage turrets.
The pieces of shit will get stuck in your barrel.
Your laser was off below the reticle as you were sighting it at 25….at 50 yds might be spot on
You didn’t explain anything about it’s assembly.
You need to turn the laser about a 5th of a turn at a time and see if the sight and the laser stay in the same places until you turn it all the way around to make sure the laser is completely straight in the barrel!
great
Make sure to use a regular drill and spin the laser to see if it spins true that why it comes with an Allen wrench to adjust the Allen screws where the laser comes out some don’t spin true and needs adjusting
For those unaware, laser bore sights are just for getting you on the paper and saving a few initial rounds, not a perfect zero. If the time and cost of popping off a few extra rounds at the start of your zeroing process outweighs fiddling with one of these and zeroing in your zeroing tool, you may want to skip this purchase.
Where can I find one for a 300wm
You would not ever expect the laser light "dot" to be exactly on top of the crosshairs of your scope. Bullets do not travel in a straight line. They travel in an arc known as bullet trajectory. Depending of the caliber, barrel length, particular load etc., there is no one answer. But, if you're trying to get on paper with an AR-15 using this laser bore sighter, do not line up the laser dot with the crosshairs of your sighting device…scope or red dot device. The bullet will leave the barrel traveling "uphill" a certain amount of degrees. It will cross a horizontal line two times. Depending on who you talking to, some will say a 25 yard zero is the best way to zero the AR. If the bullet is on the bullseye at 25 yards, it will continue to rise and then eventually fall back down and cross the horizontal line at a further distance which could be 100, 150 or 200 yards…again depending on the specs of the rifle barrel length and cartridge. If your barrel is exactly horizontal and you fire the weapon, gravity takes over and the bullet starts dropping immediately. There are other factors but the main point is the bullet doesn't travel horizontally. So, if you want to make the best use of your laser boresighter, make sure the laser dot is correct as far as windage is concerned, but keep in mind the trajectory or up and down setting. The laser dot will either be above the crosshairs or below but never should the two be stacked on top of each other. In your case, since you know you've zeroed your weapon at 50 yards, you now know the red laser dot is somewhat below the crosshairs which is correct. The one other factor I forgot to mention is also pretty important. It is possible the laser beam isn't exactly perfect. It could be pointing a bit left, right, high or low. You can spin the laser device slowly around a fixed point on a wall in the distance and see how much the dot moves. If it is off, the dot will move around the fixed point as you slowly spin the laser bore sighter. Some of these have adjustment screws and some don't. Yours does! There are four allen head screws in the front. Tweak them until the laser dot projected on the wall stays centered on the fixed target on the wall. Once you do that, you will be all set.
I won't spend a penny on a bore sighter, I'd rather use the old school way by looking through the barrel, it works every time with no problem hitting the paper out to 100 yards. It cost me nothing and most importantly, no headache !
Junk don't buy I couldn't even get on paper at 50 yards
I have no luck with laser bore sights because even if it’s snug in the barrel the laser pointer hits your target depending on which side is up. I mean it moved depending on which side is up so how do you know what is the right way to zero your sight in?
What distance are these designed for?
I have one I haven't tried it yet
I just ordered the same one from Amazon, only 10.00 $ !!!
You should unpack it and learn how to use the sighter before you make a video.
I got this bore sighting tool and was not aligned itself, you have to first align it with your iron sight. That's the reason for the hex tool. Also, for a gun (not rifle) the bore must be 4" or greater. So, once you've done the initial tool aliegnment then, and only then, you can reference you own laser. The instructions that came with this are terrible to say the least. So once you've gone thru aliegning the tool it can be useful in quick checking a laser should you have to remove it to change batteries. I got this as I have several cal. guns and rifles and did not want the expense of multiple cartridge type lasers. Lessons learned here @ $17.
WHAT A BULLSHIT TOOL.
What’s the Allen key for? Looks like you have to adjust the boresight before you can use it effectively
the allen wrench is so you can adjust the laser to your zero for future reference and or when you change scope and be perfectly zeroed duh
Piece of crap
Fonctioniert with 4,5 mm ?
POS.. paid $8 from amazon, used once, went in the trash.. rubber collars will split the first time they are used. don't waste your money, get a bushnells magnetic optical boresight for $25 that will last forever.
With your muzzle break on the end it will not line up correctly. I have had a cabels and also had a browning and just recently bought this one. Its actually dead on.
Thanks, I got one of those your video helped me 👍
Very helpful !! Thanks !
I have a Cabela's bore sighter and after many years of use the batteries finally died. I was baffled as to how too change the darned things until I saw your video. Thanks, one less thing to worry about.
I just bought one of these because it was like 12 bucks. It's chinese crap and they forgot to ship with the batteries that claimed were included in the manual.
It doesnt even look like a finished product. It seems like they gutted components from another laser product and slap together a makeshift housing with no circuit or power interface and no closed compartment for the batteries.
The manual is written entirely in broken English
What is this
Bought one works like crap 💩 I wasted my money for this trash
HAHAHA.. How much did they pay this guy to lie.?? The bullet style works great.. At leased it did for me.. Got me within 2" at 50 yards.. Stop the B.S.
Piece of Crap.