Home AR-15 Building an AR-308 on a Budget – Part 5 (Barrel and Handguard...

Building an AR-308 on a Budget – Part 5 (Barrel and Handguard Install)

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This is the fifth video of a series following me building an AR-308 on a budget and shows me install a Ballistic Advantage barrel and a UTG handguard.

Here is the link of my video showing how I dimpled the barrel:

The AR is DPMS format and the series follows me building it part by part from the stripped receivers to the completed project. In this video, I show how to install the barrel, handguard, gas tube and gas block. I hope you enjoy!

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*Music by audionautix.com*

Disclaimer: My videos are for entertainment purposes only, imitation or the use of any instruction shown in the videos is solely at your own risk. I will not be held liable for any injury to yourself or damage to your firearms resulting from an attempt to recreate anything shown in any of my videos.

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23 COMMENTS

  1. I’m looking at building something similar with 16” barrel, I’m going to add a suppressor eventually. Would you recommend a rifle length gas tube? Or getting an adjustable gas block? This is my first build and trying to avoid common mistakes. Thanks!

  2. A trick to make installing a free floating handguard a little easier is to heat the end that is slipping over the mounting ring with a hair dryer for about a minute or so, The metal will expend just a bit and it will make it easier to go on.

  3. You thought you were slick with the threaded rail nut editing it after the glass block huh lol plus you forgot to mention the different rails out there specifically 308 have low or high profile. This rifle is a dpms build high profile. An AR10 would be arlamalite low profile.

  4. Torquing down the barrel, is there a plus or minus on the torque? Or just 35 lbft. Wondering how much stretching is allowed or figured in to the torque. You had said torque 3 times total. I have been assembling aircraft components most of my working life, there is usually a range. Later in the video you had mention the possibility of torquing slightly higher for alignment if needed. In cases where we used a castellated nut with a washer and a tab you bent over, you would start with the lower end of the range so if there was adjustment needed you could tighten higher without over torquing.

  5. Awesome videos man! Good angles and lighting. You spoke clearly and there wasn't a time where I was confused with the whole series. I will definitely be watching your videos over when I build my AR-10! Subscribed.

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