Home AR-15 Building a Precision AR 15 SPR Episode #2 Assembling the Complete Upper

Building a Precision AR 15 SPR Episode #2 Assembling the Complete Upper

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The second of several videos documenting the complete build and load development for an 18″ AR-15 Special Purpose Rifle. This video covers the complete assembly of the upper of this 18″ AR-15 Special Purpose Rifle.

Parts List & Approximate Price & Link to Buy on Brownells
White Oak Armament 18″ 1:7 twist SPR Barrel – $160 –

Mega Arms Billet Ambi Billet Matched set upper & lower $375 –

Geisselle SSA-E Trigger $240 –

JP Silent Capture Spring $158 –

Fail Zero BCG $159 –

Luth-AR MBA 1 Stock – $114 –

Syrac Ordinance Adj Gas Block $99 –

Noveske NSR 16.7″ handguard $285

Harris BRM S bipod $105 –

ADM QD Mount – $180 –
SWFA 3-15 optic $699

Gas Tube $14 –
Lower Parts Kit $30-40
Noveske Take Down Pivot Pins – $15
Noveske 60 Safety Selector $40-45
Total Before Optics, Mount & Accessories: $1,960
Total w/o Suppressor: $2,839
Total w/ Suppressor: $3,839

Uppers Components Only:
Parts List & Approximate Price
Mega Arms Billet Ambi Billet Matched set upper & lower $400
White Oak Armament 18″ 1:7 twist SPR Barrel – $265-170
Noveske NSR 16.7″ handguard $285
Syrac Ordinance Adj Gas Block $99
Luth-AR MBA 1 Stock – $135
Fail Zero BCG $159
JP Silent Capture Spring $140
Geisselle SSA-E Trigger $240
Gas Tube $14
Lower Parts Kit $30-40
Noveske Take Down Pivot Pins – $15
Noveske 60 Safety Selector $40-45
ADM QD Mount – $180
SWFA 3-15 optic $699
Harris BRM S bipod $105
Total Before Optics, Mount & Accessories: $1,960
Total w/o Suppressor: $2,839
Total w/ Suppressor: $3,839

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36 COMMENTS

  1. Even the professionals ding stuff up every once in a while, I remember my first ar build the punch walked off and hit my lower where I was putting the role pin for the bolt catch and I was so pissed but then I rubbed it a little and it was black again so I has happy haha

  2. Three hands…lol. I did gas block/tube using a claw hammer and nail. No "helper". Assembled whole gun (except barrel nut) that way just to see how hard it would be. (I'll fully tooled up.)

  3. Just about every build I have seen the bbl. nut is tightened then loosened several times then tightened to spec.  This guy brings a torque wrench and then doesn't use it.

  4. So I don't comment on videos much but looking at your build list has me a bit confused. You put a $285 Handguard and a $240 trigger but you used a $160 barrel?. Apparently, aesthetics mean more than an actual precision parts.

  5. One word of caution when using copper or any sort of anti-seize compound. If you are not careful…very careful…it will end up in places you didn't want it to be. It will be very visible and it won't come off.

  6. Didn't tape anything off to prevent finish damage, no nonmarring hammer, didn't season (aka stretch) the barrel nut threads, no quality torque wrench, & since he didn't use a Geissele Reaction Rod or something similar for doing the barrel nut you could see how badly that upper receiver got torqued & twisted. And this guy is the one "teaching" & has built a bunch before? SMDH!

    After his barrel "install" I couldn't watch any more. Probably doesn't even know how to correctly attach a torque wrench into a barrel wrench either.

  7. had to stop watching at the 10 minute mark. Yes, the gun will fire, and it "may" shoot great. But he just wrecked the barrel install by bending the barrel and didn't use a torque wrench.

  8. Why is the adjustment screw for the gas block facing the receiver?? Can be awful hard to get an Allen wrench in between the barrel and the gas tube! If you didn't put it on backwards it's a terrible design!!!

  9. Do you think it's necessary to pre-stretch the threads on the upper receiver? By tightening the barrel not loosening it tightening and loosening it!so that the threads stretch a little to get a firm see on the barrel nut?

  10. Never used a hammer and punch to do a roll pin on an AR build apart from the forward assist. Way easier to just use some channellocks with the jaws taped up with electrical tape for the rest of them.

  11. First, your friend needs to buy a couple of tools. A bench block, roll pin starters, and a rubber/nylon mallet all come to mind.
    Two, you season threads when installing a barrel nut. He should have tightened and loosened the nut 3 times before torquing the nut, with a torque wrench if possible. And don't pull on the barrel.
    Three, don't know if your barrel was dimpled for the gas block. If not, just tightening the set screws is not a sure way to make sure the gas block doesn't move.
    Last, check the head space.
    Hate to think I spent that kind of money and didn't build it right. Just my opinion.

  12. Question…I'm building my first AR…I haven't been buying the cheapest parts, nor the most expensive…I've decided on a Wylde 16"  1:8 barrel…Would it be better to buy the fluted version or regular?

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