7 Scope Myths Most Shooters Believe

A properly utilized $500 scope from a good manufacturer is better than a $3000 scope bought on a whim by some chucklehead.

My 50 dollar Amazon scope works for me.

Thanks for the video.. great help 😊

I design optical systems for a living. Missile sensors, camera lenses, AR and VR head worn displays and rifle scopes.
The diameter of the front of the scope determines how much light is collected. Then the scope tapers down to a set of relay lenses that relay the first image to a second image. This is to provide an upright image that’s not inverted. The rear end of the scope is your ocular (eyepiece). The diameter of the ocular helps determine eye relief, size of eye box and ‘apparent’ field of view. This is different from magnification.
Every lens element inside contributes to stray light. Stray light is light that does not follow a sequential path through the scope (surface 1, surface 2…last surface). Stray light can come from within the field of view or from outside the field. Reflections off of surfaces or housing are an example of stray light and it increases glare, reducing contrast. So every surface must have a multi layer dielectric coating to reduce reflections. An uncoated lens surface will reflect 4% of the light. A well coated surface will reflect 0.1% of the light. But even that all adds up. So it’s a trade off. You need lots of lenses to eliminate aberrations, but each lens adds a o stray light, weight and cost.
So the important things in a scope are the diameters of the front and rear, the quality of coatings and glass clarity, and how much effort went into stray light suppression.

what!!!? that first dude that spoke sounds like he is just spittin bullcrap to me. I am DEFINITELY NOT an expert in any way, but, correct me if i am wrong. is he trying to say that because of the light and lens it will bend/refract/distort the image inside your sight in such a way that it will cause the reticle image to be off center? thus causing you to miss? if so… wow… that's the first time I have EVER heard that. so then if the "christmas tree" reticle is prone to being effected in such a way then obviously it will happen to a normal scope to then, right? Unless I am COMPLETELY misunderstanding something here then this is literally the dumbest thing I have ever heard. Help me understand this if someone can make sense of this.

Of course the boomer doesn't like that newfangled Christmas tree reticle. All he uses is a duplex with a wet finger in the air. Tree reticles are by far the best long range reticle out there. From measuring quickly to quick follow ups nothing beats it. They are beautiful for PRS

he is absolutely correct…… you dont use hold over as your focus…..you will be off by a lot unless you have a fixed 10x

I have a $50 scope and a $1800 scope. Neither one will make me better than I am, but the $1800 scope makes it easier.

GREAT INFORMATION ON THE OVER TRAVEL TO TRY AND CORRECT TRACKING PROBLEMS

I shoot over a thousand rounds of high power a year. I had a quartering away running shot with only one chance at 250. I gave a broadside lead and voila..clean miss ahead of it..

We are sight hunters, not scent or sound. So find the best suited scope first. Then add a rifle that will hit the spot.

time 316, correct me if I'm wrong here, light to eye from objective is a bit of a snake oil issue, after a certain age your eyes can not accept more lite and as we age the eye excepts less and less light, so if you had a HUGE objective you are now in the realm of diminishing gains, but the cost goes up, wrong or right?

How many are actually shooting 1000yds? Maybe you should all be shooting with Theta scopes.

10:21 the real Pepsi challenge is trying to convince the wife what the difference is.

Love the last clip. Go past your adjustment and then back. Makes total sense.

How do you rate the zeiss terra 3 4x12x42

A tip or quick check before taking the shot in order to prevent scope bite: Put 4 fingers between your eye and the occular lens. Like saluting the scope and making sure the butt stock is shouldered securely. You're welcome…

My $1k Vortex Viper really isn't any better than my $300 Arken. 🤷🏻‍♂

Good scope = Does not lose zero easily. Nuff said

Man you sound like the YouTuber
alpha m! lol

I missed part of it. Did we talk about sfp vs ffp?

MRAD is not METRIC! For f’s sake, I thought these were experts. I do appreciate the tube size myth being rectified.

Regarding the "Christmas tree" reticle, I think the gentleman is addressing a common practice with another misconception, talking about incident light from an ambient source, which is irrelevant. Certainly do what he says regarding the windage, but his explanation seems false. Here is what we know according to the physics of a well-made, simple lens.

The center of a simple lens is the "most accurate" portion of the lens, where the paraxial approximation is very accurate. Even with an uncorrected lens system with, say, chromatic aberration, the center of the lens will be crystal clear. What this means is that you always want your target in the center of the reticle. Holding high and right, for example, uses a portion of the lens where the paraxial approximation is not appropriate.

The gentleman understands this, but saying it's because of an ambient light source is not true.

Im buying a scope. What level of zoom do I need if I wanna shoot max 500m? 24x?

i want a black dot 😅 and 4x

@8:52 "We cut out a lot of the BS that you don't really need… " It would be nice to know what that is. A deer hunter probably doesn't need the level of clarity that a long range shooter requires (I took my first deer with a 5" S&W M29 and iron sights). Every shooter needs durability and repeatability: I've seen so many "budget" scopes (admittedly older generation stuff, from when I worked full-time at a public range 30 years ago) with their reticles spinning like tops inside the tubes. No shooter (unless they're sponsored) needs a manufacturer's big marketing budget.

What's not mentioned about bigger main tube dimensions is it increases the size of the eye box which is the left/right-up/down of your head/eye behind the ocular lens and still be able to see a full view through the scope. It's huge with 34mm scope tubes, greatly increases the speed your able to get on target in awkward shooting positions in the field.

Spotting your miss is the main goal, your expensive scope has no use in a high recoil rifle, better have a moderate priced scope with a low recoil rifle, sad to say if you want high accuracy at a distance you will need a heavier rifle.Closer distances a light rifle is fine.

My wife says tube size matters 😂.

Not really myth busting. None of us long range shooters are using more than small hold overs. This data seemed targeted to real novices.

Relative beginner, still learning before I buy – wondering if there's such a thing as a reliable scope that has software where you can enter the brand/type/caliber/b.a.c./bullet weight/weather/barometer/humidity/barrel length/barrel twist rate/ft above sea level, etc, etc, and have the scope take care of all things vertical when it's told (or when it detects) some or all of this data. I see how accurate the estimations are, and there's repetition. Wherever I see repetition, as a software dude, I see potential software.

I understand why something like this would be more likely in a military type of scope, but the more I think about it, that's not a lot of processing. If a virtual reticle can manage the para-whatever it is (when you're looking at a slight angle thru the scope) like a real one, what about allowing the scope to automatically turn the elevation dial to what it predicts the drop would be? Has this been done in an affordable scope before? You could even have a locator in the scope that identifies things for you, like ft above sea level, barometric pressure, even make API calls to determine anything it doesn't already need to know – hell, even identify the age/type/gender of animal in your scope, whether or not it's in season, etc.

I do not buy anything made in mother F chiNA I bought Steiner and IOR

To sum this up tear one scopes Cost more simply because they have 100% tracking the quality of glass Is perfect. And the parallax is dead on and they are Durable. If you can find this in a cheap scope, I'm sure people would buy it. Don't get me wrong, There is a lot of companies doing a Much better job building cheaper Scopes But They are not tier one scopes.

I got a 4x12x40 vortex tactical on my 30-06 and I have no problem getting it out to 1000 yards on a cheap piece I have $550 in it and it has a fixed Parallax!!

I have bought one or two rifles a year for decades
95% wear scopes which mean they need scope bases and rings unless I get lucky and Tally makes a set of rings for that rifle
As far as rings go for us non wealthy types it was a dark and dreary day when Burris shipped thier ring production off to Communist China because I will no longer buy thier rings and they were my ring of choice because the plastic ring incert eliminated all issues if they exisisted with scope ring alignment and scope base issues
Now if weight is an issue I use Vortex Pro series alloy rings if weight is not an issue I use Warne Maxima Horizontal rings and yes I check each set or rings for alignment prior to mounting my scope and I can not recommend Warne Maxima and Vortex Pro rings strongly enough I have over 10 pairs of each in use and never any problems with them whatsoever
If they make them and they will work on your rifle Talley one piece scope base/rings work superbly I have a set on my lightest hardest kicking rifle a Tikka T3 Lite in 300wsm and a Trijicon Credo HX 2.5-15 scope and they have performed flawlessly
How hard your rifle kicks with how heavy your scope is combined determines what scope rings you must use
A set of rings that will secure a heavy scope on a 300wm rifle likely will have issues with recoil induce scope movement if your rifle is chambered in 338 Edge

I'm sorry but u lost me with the first fudd