Home AR-15 Building an Accurate AR15 Part 1: The Upper Receiver

Building an Accurate AR15 Part 1: The Upper Receiver

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In this video, Caleb covers the first installment of the “How to Build an Accurate AR Series.” The guide starts with a candid admission that some recommendations may differ from what viewers might have learned elsewhere, but promises to explain the rationale behind each suggestion. The video meticulously details the selection and assembly of components for building an accurate AR-15, including:

-The choice of a SilencerCo Billet upper receiver for its precise fit with the barrel and quality machining.
-The selection of a Brownells Mark 12 barrel, emphasizing the need for a premium barrel when accuracy is a priority.
-The utilization of a Geissele Mark 18 handguard for its rigidity and versatility, featuring an ARCA rail for easy bipod and tripod attachment.
-The importance of a quality adjustable gas block, with the Rifle Speed Adjustable Gas Block highlighted for its ease of adjustment and maintenance.
-Tips on selecting a quality upper receiver and what features to look for, such as proper machining and alignment.
-An explanation of why bedding the barrel may not be necessary for modern AR builds, providing insight into the process and its impact on accuracy.

The video concludes with a step-by-step guide on lapping the upper receiver to ensure a true and accurate fit with the barrel, including a detailed tutorial on using Brownells lapping tools and techniques for achieving a perfect finish.

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40 COMMENTS

  3. Thank you for the video. If you decide to go with an upper receiver that uses a thermal fit (assuming that it has a slight smaller diameter since it needs to be heated to open it up) will the upper receiver lapping tool still fit?

  4. 48:19 That Keymo muzzle device is designed to be timed with the ports horizontal, not vertical. The top of the brake where the JMAC logo is should be at 12 o’clock along with the top Keymo lug notch. This is so that when you install the suppressor, the lug with the corresponding notch on the Keymo collar is a reference to match up the correct lug with the correct notch. Its not like a tri-lug where you can just put any lug in any notch. Also, if you ever shot that brake laying prone with the ports vertically timed like that, youd blow up enough debris with the exiting muzzle gasses to plant a garden.

  9. For torquing the flash hider or muzzle break and also removing the same; some people have talked about using a fixture that has a name like action receiver rod vs what you were using. Any thoughts about it.

    An obvious general observation is that a hobbiest that is more like a shade tree mechanic as myself will never have some of the tools that were demonstrated such as a bore camera and some of the other goodies that were on display.
    How about a video showing how to do a reasonable job with what tooling most people can have. If I want a super accurate rifle it looks like I will have to employ the services of a professional with the right tools, skills, and knowledge.

  20. Ha, caught Caleb doing something wrong. You’re supposed to clamp the Wheeler upper vise block by the wider portion of the block. It makes sense to clamp it at the narrower portion but the instructions say otherwise.

  34. I always enjoy these “do it yourself” videos. I often notice that at least one seemingly significant step is referenced but not covered. In this case you mention that you will use a bore scope before drilling the barrel. This seems like something we should see and a significant step. I’m guessing you’ll say this step is in another video so, if that is true, maybe a link inside the video would help for such a seemingly significant step? If the step isn’t in another video, would you consider making one? I do appreciate the content.

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