Home StreamLight How to Zero Your Pistol Laser to Work at Any Distance

How to Zero Your Pistol Laser to Work at Any Distance

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Genius idea – had to share!

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This test is for educational purposes and is specifically filmed and produced in accordance with YouTube’s community guidelines. Dustin is a certified, licensed, and insured firearms instructor. Everything was filmed on an OFFICIAL GUN RANGE and closed range with all the proper safety precautions. Do not attempt to duplicate anything yourself.

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40 COMMENTS

  1. Great video, Thanks. Question. You mention 3 inches low, and that obviously works great for your specific weapon. Your laser appears to be maybe 2 inches below the center of your bore? Does the actual amount of deviation for good grouping at different ranges correlate to the actual measurement between the laser and the bore?? For example, if your laser is just 1" below your bore, would the ideal point of impact actually be 1-1/2 inches low? Or, is the 3" an independent measurement regardless the measurement from bore to laser?

  2. I zero my lasers for the farthest distance where I can quickly and easily pick up the dot. At shorter (combat) distances, the offset is negligible, and at longer distances, the dot's too difficult to pick up to be useful. These are handguns. Think high-stress, self-defense scenarios, not slow fire paper bullseyes.

  3. Best part of the video was bigfoot hiding in the weeds behind you at the beginning! Also, the zeroing part… that was pretty great too😂

    First time coming to the channel. Your channel is freakin' awesome!

  4. Excellent information regarding the laser use.
    I believe this is exactly what I need for my grip mounted laser site & explains why I have to point the barrel up to line the laser up with my sights. 👌

  5. Great vid and explanation. One Q? – the distance you used (3") is dictated by the distance between your red dot above and your laser below, right? So if my rig is set up where, just for example, the distance between my red dot and my laser is 3.5", then I should set mine at that (3.5") distance, correct?

  6. Hey Dustin, I only know what I have experience with, and that is the baldr s. With that said I would imagine the pro has a very similar mounting setup on it so I figured I would share my experience with you. I heard you mention at about 2:30 That the laser/ light has a bit of wiggle causing for the laser to not be the most accurate thing ever. I mounted my baldr s on my Glock 19 primarily for the light functionality in the event I need it for home defense. So the accuracy of the laser was not as much of an importance to me, and I never paid any mind to it. I noticed the other day while playing around with the baldr on my ar-15 that there was quite a significant amount of play that I hadn’t noticed on the Glock. That of course got me thinking, and sure enough after re mounting it to the Glock I could feel a slight wiggle I hadn’t noticed originally. After playing around with it some more I figured out a very simple way to entirely (I haven’t been to the range to test it yet) remove the play. Again I’m unsure exactly how the pro works, but on the S there are two parts. The main part that attaches to the Glock/ picatinny rail, and then the laser/ light that attaches to that via olights patented “slider rail” I started the way I did before by attaching the main mount to the Glock rail in closest slot I could to the trigger guard. Then took the laser/ light, and slid it all the way on to the slider rail until it was against the trigger guard. Unlike before however, I tried applying pressure on the main mount towards the muzzle, while applying pressure on the laser/ light against the trigger guard as I flipped the quick release tab closed locking it into place. Just by locking it In while applying the slight pressure I can’t seem to get the thing to wiggle even in the slightest. This may vary slightly with different hand guns, you may need to go to the 2nd or 3rd closest position to the trigger guard to get it perfect on other handguns or use a slightly different technique with the pro since I couldn’t find any mention of a secondary adjustment point for the pro. I did notice quite a significant gap between your laser/ light, and the trigger guard though. So I would suggest moving it back until it’s contacting the trigger guard, and at least giving you that additional point of contact even if there’s no way to lock it in place while under tension like there is with the S. I hope this helps, even if it’s just for that added piece of mind that the your laser isn’t going to be in a slightly different spot with every shot you take ✌️

    TL;DR: Always make sure the laser/ light is in contact with the trigger guard for added stability. If you have a baldr s, or another model that uses the slider rail, attach the Glock/ picatinny in the closest position you can to the trigger guard. Then while applying pressure towards the muzzle on the Glock/ picatinny rail mount, also apply pressure on the laser/ light against the trigger guard while you lock it down. This should at lease limit, but most likely completely eliminate any play in the setup that can/ will end up with the laser changing with every shot taken

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