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1. "two to zero" 2/0 is pronounced "two aught"
2. the correct drill for 3/4" 2/0 pins is 1/8"
3. its better to use an end mill on a rounded surface like a barrel
4. do not reverse a reamer, and in the name of Tubalcain, get a tap holder.
So, he has a lathe and a milling machine, but does not have a simple tap handle and has to use cheap needle nose vice grips?
15 seconds in and he puts the FSB on… Backwards
Do I want to waste any more time watching?
I just installed an un-drilled FSB on a barrel that someone had already drilled. I don't have a mill, but do have a tool-room lathe with a milling attachment. I was able to drill new new holes in the FSB which lined up perfectly with the the ones already in the barrel. A lot of people say that you can't do this, but with the right setup, new bits, and a good plan you certainly can.
Did you drill and ream from the same side? Is that possible because you are using a mill? Is it better to ream by hand instead of in the mill?
Useless video. You need to be smarter than the tools . It would have been so easy to turn the C-clamp over so it’s not in the way and should definitely use a t- handle to be at the best straight right angle as possible
1.use a straight flute #2 ream with a tap handle. 2 use a center drill to spot your starting points.3 use #28 straight flute carbide drill bit and drill all the way through .4 drill half way with #30 straight flute carbide drill bit half way through.Take your time and drill and ream slow and easy…Cutting oil on drilling and reaming both.Also use vise grips with tape on the jaws….NOT A C-CLAMP…The c-clamp can slip on you very easy while drilling…Also use new drill bits .Jobber type bits will wander on you while drilling…Carbide will cut through the base and BBL like butter and will drill straight.Take your time in both drilling as well as reaming.drill the back hole first then drill the front.After drilling the rear hole place a drill bit in the hole to help keep the bbl and sight base aline . Then drill the front hole.After drilling and reaming add your pins but do not set ..Check your align with your rear sight and bbl. To do this draw a line one a sheet of paper and stand it up vertical and level it.Next clamp your upper in vise add your bbl .Look down your bbl and have the vertical line in the center of bbl.Mechanical zero your rear sight so as to be dead center in your upper.Now look at your rear sight and down your bbl and rear sight as well as your bbl should both be dead center with the line…If not your front sight has canted while drilling.DO Not use to much pressure while drilling and make sure you block up well under your front sight base…. Dont be a cheap ass on your reamer or drill bits.You will be sorry if you do…….Hope this helps…..I have done 43 bbls and front sight base..If you have done it correct your rear sight will only have to be moved 2 or 3 clicks left or right………..
I liked the parts where he didn't show the pressing on of the FSB and driving in the taper pins. I'm so glad he didn't show those critical parts because I definitely didn't need to know which direction to drive in the pins or what tools are needed to press on the FSB.
This is like one of two videos on all of YouTube on how to install an A2 gas block. But how do you install one that isn't pre holed?
… why didn't you just put the barrel nut and the handguard end-cap on before pinning the thing in place?
I see too flaws in this, but it is what it is.
Dude, ypu lost everyone at lathe. Off to the next video.
BRD Engineering sells a jig . just saying…
How do you know when you're done with the reamer?
A plastic spacer? Won't it eventually melt?
Not worried about the crown when chucking it up like that?
Name of song please
I don't understand… did you drill through the barrel for your taper pin???
While this approach can work it is not as precise as using a BRD Engineering jig. Also plunge cutting the holes with a undersize 7/64" 0.193" 4 flute end mill (preferably carbide) helps a bunch. Drill bits walk off center of round objects (ie the round barrel). After you get your hole started finish up with the correct #31 0.120" cobalt drill bit to enlarge it before doing your taper ream. The spiral 2/0 taper ream works much better than a straight. You were also too aggressive in your approach. It should just be a little at a time and constant checking. You want a tight Colt/BCM like fit on the pins….not DPMS/Post 2006 Bushmaster. The way that the BRD Engineering jig works it centers off the barrel pin in the back and a set screw runs into the FSB post. How do you screw that one up? Your method is a little guessing and a whole lot of luck. I want my shit to shoot to POA/POI and hold reasonable MOA accuracy at 100+ yards.
So drill press instead of lathe is no go,m
All those tools and you don't have a T-Handle for your tap/reamer??
You NEVER reverse a ream! It'll greak off the edges or round them over.
So what if you have an A2 FSB that is not drilled for the pins? And a barrel that is? Trying to swap out the pinned gas block base on a Bushy Carbon 15 for an A2 FSB.
why not mark it with a pencil instead of scratching the park off.
In stead of "and just like that" it would have been nice if you would have shown completion of the reaming process and installation of the pins.
Well hell. I wish you were my neighbor right now. 👍
When you installed your front sight how tight of a fit was it to your barrel?
Good video, I'm taking my 19 year old son's AR with a free floating handguard and changing it to a M-16 A4. He loves the look as do I considering that's what I was issued during my service.
You should switch to decaf.
Dude. Why didn't you put the handguard retainer on? You had it in your hand. Also, if you flipped the c clamp and used the tap holder from your tap and die set instead of vise grips you could have saved some time. If you use a piece of plastic rod you can line up the gas block without needing to make marks and R&R the sight base again.
Where’s your HG retainer?
HI !! I really need one of those used front sights !! where did you gey yours ?? thanks !