Home AR-15 How to Change a Barrel on An AR-15

How to Change a Barrel on An AR-15

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Learn all about how to install a barrel and torque the barrel nut properly from Lemar!

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20 COMMENTS

  1. Just received a Gen2 Side charging AR10 assembly and the barrel was NOT even tightened!, Must've been one of those living room floor builds at your facility, Ridiculous as i noticed it as handguard moved removed handguard and just as I expected barrel nut finger tight🙄, Take your own advice before sending your complete uppers out to customers

  2. Frankenstein builds are usually perfect as long as you stick to good companies. Good companies will have nice and tight tolerances that are compatible with each other.

    If you do an 80% lower and a bunch of Amazon parts or the cheapest stuff you can get on optics planet your gambling. Lots of American companies will outsource handguards, castlenuts/qd combos, buffers, buffer tubes, muzzle devices, gas tubes, gas blocks and furniture. Even BCGs can be made in China but sourced and branded by your favorite budget dealer in town. Don't do it!

    I've watched many hours of the School of the American rifle channel on YouTube and even companies like fail zero and BCM will have a bad batch with loose tolerances.

    The best bang for your buck on trustworthy parts is PSA and BCA. BCA is slightly less expensive than PSA but just as good. The only thing you sacrifice with BCA or PSA is a niver fit and finish. If your going to rattle can your rifle it makes zero difference.

    Aero precision is a fantastic choice if your willing to spend about 30 to 40% more. They have A1 QC, fantastic standards with their colors and are just as good as any DD, JP, BCM and Troy product. I love aero because of their continuous rail design. You will never have a problem mounting anything to your flat top rail anything you want.

    BCA I like better than PSA. Their basically the same but BCA is a little less expensive and their uppers come with charging handles and BCGs. So I guess BCA is the best bang for your buck on the market. No pun intended.

    I wish BCA would use higher quality anodizing coats. Their fine and work but could have better natural lubricating properties. The bolts BCA and PSA use for their hadguards are ugly.

    Also, from my experience. You need to run BCA uppers dripping wet to get rid of that gritty feeling in the action. At least until it's broke in. They start to get noticeably smoother at 1000+ rounds. Keep them clean and oiled up during the break in and you have a very smooth, durable and reliable rifle ready for what ever paint job you want to give it.

  3. You have multiple people in the comments with the same problem. Not being able to get the barrel nut broke loose on bca uppers. And i have two i cant get apart

  4. The Wheeler block is a handy tool. I have been hesitant using the pin in place option for any barrel nut torque/removal tasks. The other option the Wheeler block has on it is to slide the picatinny rail of upper, into the mating cuts in the channel of the block. Set the block as deep in the vise as possible, and close the vise tightly. This is how I deal with AR10 upper receivers. AR10's use a .285" diameter takedown and pivot pin, AR15's are smaller (¼"). The Wheeler block has ¼" tooling pins. AR10 receivers slide about in the pin in set up because of pin vs. hole size difference.. I do love the Wheeler block (pin in option) for weapon cleaning, scope mounting, and such.
    Anymore, I use the Brownells 080-000-637MB
    AR-15/M16 BARREL EXTENSION TORQUE TOOL, that grabs the barrel extension splines (like a big Torx bit).
    You doing God's Work, Lemar. GBY.

  5. I can see changing calibers in a weapon that requires changing barrels needing anti-seize , when you go from a hunting round to a target shooting round because of availability of ammunition.

  6. Thank you. Personally I want to chznge the muzzle device on my 20" heavy barrel from the one with slanted slots that came to an A2 with straight slots and no slots on bottom when timed right.

  7. I got a complete upper from you guys a few months ago and I decided to change the handguard on it and the barrel nut was so over torqued I started stripping the barrel nut. The tongue wrench I was using was set at 90 lbs from my previous use and my car and the wrench was clicking as I was trying to remove the barrel nut. I eventually got it off by using pipe for more leverage but the barrel nut is now usable but good thing my new handguard had all the necessary parts for installation. New barrel nut is torqued at 65 now.

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