A quick how-to on polishing your JP Enterprises Trigger kit
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Thanks for keeping us informed. I just got a chiapps PAC 9. Working on getting it set up. Thanks for letting us know what kind of scoped you us. I enjoy your videos they are very informative. Will be watching you more.
Visually my stock mil-spec trigger had machine marks and the pull measured 5.7 lbs on a digital trigger gauge. …not bad actually. I placed 2000 grit paper on a smooth flat SS plate and made several flush passes to the sear and disconnector notch. Its easy to see if your truly flat by the witness marks on the black paper. It took less than one minute to dress those features and even with the stock springs, the trigger was smooth as a babies bottom and consistently measured 3.1 lbs.
Used 1500 grid paper and went around the sharp edges as well to remove the "scraping" effect. Without compromising the shape in any way, I found that I had an even better, smoother trigger pull.
For better results, after the 400-500 grit sandpaper move to 1000-1500 grit sandpaper, followed by 2000 grit, followed by 3000 grit. There's no need to fill voids in the steel with polishing compound if you remove the voids properly. The polishing compound step is for beginners that don't know what they're doing, and it'll require regular maintenance as the compound wears off.
I polished the sear on my hammer (with a fine Eze-Lap "Hone and Stone" available at Amazon) and bent the hammer spring a little by essentially over rotating it. I ended up with a 6-pound pretty crisp (for mil-spec) trigger. I'm happy with it.
i personally use ceramic that is so smooth and flat it takes a couple hours to do a mil spec trigger set up, but it comes out as smooth as a literal mirror with the absolute minimal of material removed.
why would you do the sandpaper after the stone? Isn't the sandpaper more abrasive then the stone? I'm wanting to do this and never done it before but it just seams backwards. Help me understand
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I would F this up for sure.
Thanks for keeping us informed. I just got a chiapps PAC 9. Working on getting it set up. Thanks for letting us know what kind of scoped you us. I enjoy your videos they are very informative. Will be watching you more.
Visually my stock mil-spec trigger had machine marks and the pull measured 5.7 lbs on a digital trigger gauge. …not bad actually. I placed 2000 grit paper on a smooth flat SS plate and made several flush passes to the sear and disconnector notch. Its easy to see if your truly flat by the witness marks on the black paper. It took less than one minute to dress those features and even with the stock springs, the trigger was smooth as a babies bottom and consistently measured 3.1 lbs.
Used 1500 grid paper and went around the sharp edges as well to remove the "scraping" effect. Without compromising the shape in any way, I found that I had an even better, smoother trigger pull.
Good video but no need for music.
I used some clp and all the red started bleeding off my spring, is that necessarily a bad thing?
For better results, after the 400-500 grit sandpaper move to 1000-1500 grit sandpaper, followed by 2000 grit, followed by 3000 grit. There's no need to fill voids in the steel with polishing compound if you remove the voids properly. The polishing compound step is for beginners that don't know what they're doing, and it'll require regular maintenance as the compound wears off.
Thanks
Done incorrectly and you have a burst fire rifle.
I polished the sear on my hammer (with a fine Eze-Lap "Hone and Stone" available at Amazon) and bent the hammer spring a little by essentially over rotating it. I ended up with a 6-pound pretty crisp (for mil-spec) trigger. I'm happy with it.
Just wondering why would you use the stone first, before the 400 grit paper?
My teeth started to hurt when i saw that pick.
What is a sear prep grease and where can I get it?
i personally use ceramic that is so smooth and flat it takes a couple hours to do a mil spec trigger set up, but it comes out as smooth as a literal mirror with the absolute minimal of material removed.
nice video and great info.
i agree just use a 1000 grit or hight stone then polish…
why would you do the sandpaper after the stone? Isn't the sandpaper more abrasive then the stone? I'm wanting to do this and never done it before but it just seams backwards. Help me understand