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Building Match Grade AR-15s

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Joe Carlos discusses some issues important when building a match grade AR-15 for use in High Power or Across The Course Competition as used in NRA and CMP events.

Contact Joe Carlos directly at NCC1701 -at- penn.com

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28 COMMENTS

  1. I just bought a Ballistic Advantage Hanson Profile barrel, that has a NiB coated Barrel Extension & it fits VERY tight into the receiver. I'm almost positive the fit is due to the NiB coating. So when buying a barrel, a NiB coated extension is something u should look for. BTW, my BA barrel is a Tac driver & cost $190. Much cheaper than other high Shelf barrels.

  2. May I respectfully and humbly ask about the Green Loctite 290 and its temp rating?

    It states on the Loctite property’s chart the green loctite is temperature rated from -65F to 300F .

    With a rapid rate of fire that would cause the barrel to far exceed the 300 degree rating effect the property’s of the Loctite 290 ?

    Also in relation too the subject, what do you know and or think about the Loctite 5540 extreme temp?

    Is this suitable for barrel seating application in a fast rate of fire where the barrel may exceed the 300 degree temperature rating of the Loctite 290 ?

    Please let me no your thoughts as I respect what you have to say.

    Thanks so much for your professional opinion.

  3. Joe C. I gotta say that I feel for you buddy! You are one patient man to put up with all the keyboard/internet AR masters out there. Having been a CNC Machinist myself for some years I'd be more likely to discourage people from building AR's because it seems more than a few of them miraculously become "masters/experts" after one or two builds. I do appreciate you pointing out these flaws that you find in the platform though. You've accelerated my learning curve of the AR by a good decade I'd dare to say. Sometimes I try your fixes and sometimes I just rely on my own bag of ticks learned from years of making chips. Thank you for your time and effort put into sharing your experience!

  4. I just have a mid range (probably wishful thinking) Bushmaster AR15 carbine that I have upgraded, but it's just a run of the mill 16" barrel AR. I've been reading a lot about the different forge markings, so I know that the keyhole forge marks on my upper and lower mean that they were made by Cerro Forge.
    Lately I have been thinking about buying a second upper receiver, because I want a longer barrel for competitions, but when I changed my handguard a few months ago I noticed that the barrel was really stuck in the upper receiver. I have my eye on an AR Stoner flat top assembled upper (I know that just means the forward assist and dust cover) for $90 on Midway. I have a few parts on my AR already made by AR Stoner, and I love the brand's name just because of the homage to Eugene Stoner (RIP). Anyway, this AR Stoner upper has the square forge mark. Will I be able to build a decent long range complete upper receiver with an inexpensive upper?

    I hope this doesn't seem sarcastic, but what's the deal with your fingernails? They look really long; it seems like that would be a nuisance to you; I know my fingernails drive me crazy if they start getting long, and if I don't trim them I end up getting them snagged on something and broken.

  5. What if you have slop in a barrel to receiver you can feel, but you can't get .001 shim stock 3/4 of the way around, are you better off not doing anything or using a smaller peice of shim you can get in? I've found with a good upper and more recent match barrels I can feel a bit of wiggle sometimes, but I'd probably only get 1" of 0.001" shim stock in. Is it better to not use a small piece and just use green loctite?

  6. What barrel extension option is best to go with from bat machine for a 300 blackout going in a standard mil spec upper receiver from Palmetto state armory? Will be doing a barrel swap very soon and would love to get one to try out. On bat machine's website the have the standard feed ramps and the m4 feed ramps, and they have the sizes .999 and 1.00 and I'm not certain which to go with or what the best method for measuring the reciever. Any help or advice would be appreciated. Thanks for the great video and for the information on this topic! New subscriber here👍

  7. This is a good "Old School" technique, There has been good advances in helping correct this on AR15 rifles with barrel extension and Upper Receiver Tolerance Issues. Lapping the Upper Receiver, and correct tolerance issues with the Barrel Extension and Upper Receiver. See the video about accurizing the AR-15 – Part 3: Receiver Prep & AR-15 Barrel Installation.

    https://youtu.be/XHxU8VUAHOY

  8. Be very interested if you've any exposure to the AERO M5E1 or the M4E1 integral free-float handguard fixture which changes the barrel nut from female to male threads. If so, I wonder does it change your recommendations for bedding. I can see that it definitely hinders the way you recommend finding the sweet spot of your barrel nut on your other video. Nice job. Just happened on your videos
    .

  9. ive tried using the shim stock method but i didnt see any accuracy increase. Im having random .5-6 inch spread @ 100 yard. I start to think its the barrel nut im using from strike industries.

  10. I'm sorry, but my minute brain has trouble comprehending how after a barrel nut is torqued to spec, that you can actually wiggle the barrel in the upper receiver. Could there be movement under high pressures being applied from the explosion of the cartridge getting fired? Yes, I get that, but just being able to stand there with a fully assembled upper, and being able to get "wiggle" from your barrel makes no sense. Seems to me, this is a really cleverly concealed infomercial for this guys barrels, and this guy Joe Carlos to get a piece of the pie by selling his wears.  You can lap the upper receiver barrel opening, and use green Locktite 620 to bed the barrel extension, and that should be good enough. I hate when experts exploit the novice and the easily-swayed consumers. In case anybody is wondering, I spent 8 years in the Army as an Infantry rifleman, graduated form armorers school in the Army, worked with the unit armorer when not out in the field, and shot competition events in the Army, along with 3 deployments. So I am no high speed expert on building precision weapons, but I never saw any "wiggling" barrels in the M16/M4's I ever worked on. Just sayin'…

  11. I discovered this mess a few years ago while fooling around with a target build for my father. Nobody made custom barrel extensions to buy yet so I made one out of 316ss. I just saw this video and had a moment of deja vu. Never fired it before the custom barrel but it sure does shoot. Good to know BAT makes them, I have one of their 3 flute bolt actions, best rifle actions available if you ask me.

  12. Hey good video I enjoy your post but why not just buy the right tool and true the end of the receiver up with the proper lapping tool . Do it by hand no drill or drill press . Im sure if some would lap there receiver they would get there head space off but if you do it by hand and watch close what your doing and take your time it works and you will get good results .

  13. Hmmm.
    The barrel nut tightens up against the lip on the barrel extension. The barrel can only be loose if the barrel nut is loose. Does the barrel loosen in the pocket of the receiver after multiple firings? I have not seen this looseness on any of my barrels that I have installed and I would have to think this would be a common install practice if this is such a problem. Please explain.

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