Getting the barrel and upper receiver mated and getting the barrel nut ready for torquing using the B.E.V. Block from Magpul.
Use high temp grease of some kind, but not graphite on the threads of the upper receiver and add some around the barrel extension before installing the barrel and nut to aid in corrosion resistance and removal for replacing the barrel.
Showing the proper way to torque a barrel nut onto an AR-15 upper receiver using the B.E.V. Block from Magpul.
Any barrel nut should be torqued to 30 ft-lbs, loosened, torqued, loosened, torqued for the third time to 30 ft-lbs. and then torqued to the final value not to exceed 80 ft-lbs. in 5 ft-lb increments, per the Army maintenance manual.
The barrel nut used on this AR is from a UTG Pro rail. It doesn’t have to be indexed for the gas tube, but it does need to be torqued enough to allow the “locking ring” to be aligned for the mounting screws to be installed. This will allow the top rail to be aligned with the top of the upper.
I recommend 50 to 60 ft-lbs for barrel nuts that don’t require gas tube indexing.
Make sure your tool (crow’s foot, combo AR tool, proprietary tool, etc), is straight with your torque wrench or you won’t torque the barrel nut enough.
Aluminium to steel no anti sieze? When putting an adapter other than a socket on a torque wrench offset an adapter at 90 degrees if you don't know the mathmaticle formula. Military manule?? Offseting at 90 degree angle is proper way. Do your reserch please.
puppy, lock this puppy, puppy, puppy!
At what point do you put the appropriate grease on the barrel and threads? I must have missed that part…
This guy needs to go back to high school shop class and pay attention this time. This is absolutely the wrong way to torque a barrel nut.
As for the correct way to connect the torque wrench to a non mil spec barrel nut, i would advise you folks contact the company whom you purchased your barrel nut from and ask them directly.
This is a rifle, not a car, completely different ways of doing things.
Good video. You are the only person I have seen explain the barrel nut torque sequence and why you do it with regards to the armorers manual. Also your video gave me the idea to find armorers manuals in pdf and free down loads.
All of the people saying this way is wrong or the military tech manual is wrong it this guy doesn't know what he is talking about. I have one thing to say, do it your way I don't give a hoot how you do it. When it comes to the guns I pay for I will treat them the way I want to. Common sense alone says the in line with the wrench will give the most accurate tension on the nut.
This is old, but anyone watching this, don't listen to the 'see my wrench is in-line, this is correct way as per the army manual yadda yadda' – its not. It doesn't matter for an AR15/M4 barrel because the proper torque is 30-80ft lbs – since it has such a large tolerance the added torque applied due to the inch or two you add when using an extension at 0 degrees doesn't matter. But, when working on jet engines, replacing your head gasket, or anything else where your torque has to be right, you have to use the 90 degree bend method in order to apply the proper amount of torque.*EDIT*: Dont add more than an inch or so if using any extension at 0 degrees when torquing your barrel – as you add length from your handle to the point of contact with the nut, you add torque that will not be measured by your torque wrench.
interesting and a good vid. would you do the same 3 in row torques with a new barrel and old receiver?
Well, this is wrong
Your channel name is great.
He's wrong, they're wrong, you're wrong, everyone is wrong…. blah blah blah. Has the gun given you any issues? Does your zero move around? Has the hand guard wiggled loose?
whats up with you and puppies???
Please RR, view Shane Conley's video; "How to use a crowfoot or extension adapter on a torque wrench WITHOUT MATH". It will visually PROVE how the adapter position (90* and 180*) affects your actual torque output value. Your method is producing a value HIGHER than your wrench is set at. Again, see Shane's video.
I understand if you use an extension tool straight in line with a torque wrench you have to use the following formula. Formula for using torque wrench straight in line with barrel nut tool.
T = Actual Desired Torque
y = Applied Indicate Torque
L = Effective Length Lever (From handhold to socket drive)
E = Effective Length of Extension (From socket hole to barrel center)
T x L
Formula ——— = Y
L + E
Desired Torque x Length of wrench to handhold
———————————————————————————— = Torque you set Wrench to
Length of Wrench to handhold + length of Extension
Nice rubber gloves. Is that gun used and covered in bio matter?
worrying about the milspec torque on a UTG barrel nut is like worrying about putting premium gas in a moped.
this is only MY TAKE……@ 180 u r adding a few inches to the t/bar's length, the t/bar has been calibrated at FACTORY for a accurate torque at bar's given length (centered @ LUG) a error will occur when this centered length is changed……. NOTE – the side distance does not add a factor.
ALL BLACK RIFLES MATTER
that is the wrong way to torque with an adapter. always at 90 degrees….
I think you are asking how much torque can be applied to take off a barrel nut, right? If that is your question then the short answer, all joking aside, is whatever it takes. The only problem I can think of, is if the upper was assembled improperly with Red Threadlocker, then you will have to heat the barrel nut very carefully to get it loose. That will cause you to run into another problem as to how to handle the barrel nut tool and the upper while hot. Sometimes you have to know how the upper was assembled before you can take it apart. If you do put a torque wrench on the barrel nut wrench, in-line, and you get to 80 ft-lbs, and the nut still won't budge, I would look carefully at it to make sure the upper isn't stressed or that it's got Red Threadlocker on the threads.
Now if you meant to say how much torque can you put on a barrel nut, then it's the same for any barrel nut wrench, in-line, up to 80 ft-lbs. I don't like getting that high. What I do is try to hover around a nice medium, say 55-65 ft-lbs, and if I can't line up the gas tube, I will either face the upper more, or shim the barrel nut.
I hope this helps, and if this is clear as mud, I'll try to clarify once you get back to me. I'll upload a video showing the upper being faced. I pretty much have faced every upper I build, because so far 95% of the one's I've done needed it.
how much torque is too much to take off an ar 15 barrel?
Thanks for the encouragement. I really need to update this video since it only shows one barrel nut.
I am a professional armorer and you've done an exceptional job on your YouTube Video. The problem with some videos, is the lack of following directions, citing the authorities for technical data. Good work. 🔫
you need to reference army, air force, or navy tech manuals and not some random website. you are correct that at 90 degrees to the torque wrench you will get the correct torque value for the tool, however this is not critical for the barrel nut as the torque should be in a range 30 to 80 ft lbs. you just need enough torque to get your gas tube aligned. not below and not above. the torque is already calculated for you with the tool in line, and yes actual torque is higher than 30 at 30 and so forth. again this was calculated for you by Armalite when they invented the AR. if you want to build your AR wrong, feel free, but I'll keep building mine right.
well, I can tell you that this video is incorrect…the tool does not go in line with the torque wrench…it goes 90* to the torque wrench for proper torque…the TM manual specifies a specific torque wrench and barrel nut tool, and is still wrong, all day long…the UTG tool is not one of these offsets but can be factored very easily…if you'd like to educate yourself on proper torque techniques, you'll learn that 90* is the proper orientation to the torque wrench…not in line…you are actually multiplying your torque value because it is offset…at 90* it is actually the same as if it was centered over the nut…kindly see this page… http://www.cncexpo.com/TorqueAdapter.aspx and enter 90 into the A slot and then any torque value into the D and the final torque setting will always be the same…