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Unboxing of the Trinity Force Alpha Lower Build Kit For Ar-15 With DMR Grip (FDE) by Black Rifle Depot. Includes Complete Mil-Spec Trinity Force Stock & Buffer Kit (FDE): The stock kit comes with everything you need to get your rifle up and running including a steel endplate, castle nut,…
The KAK Shockwave Lower Build Kit from Black Rifle Depot. Get one here: Description: This is a complete lower build kit from Black Rifle Depot for anyone looking to build themselves a AR 15 pistol. Kit Includes: Black KAK Shockwave Blade 1.0 Mil-Spec Pistol Buffer Tube Kit Mil-Spec AR 15…
AR TekMat: The NEW AR-15 Complete Owner's Guide: Lower: Mega Arms Billet Lower ALG QMS Trigger BAD Enhanced Pivot/Takedown Pins BCM Mod2 Pistol Grip Fortis QD Endplate PSA LPK (no trigger) H Buffer and Standard Carbine Spring Phase Five Pistol Buffer Tube KAK Shockwave Pistol Brace FCD Augmented Bolt Catch/Release…
I use a geissele receiver ext jig in a vice to do this job, isolate the lower in the vice using coins as spacers on the pistol grip flat protrusion. This way you don’t clock the tube when you torque the castle nut, if your tube rotates under torque the tooth on the backplate will dig into your soft aluminum rcvr ext and now it’s damaged.
Wait, no way.. Is the little spring loaded hole behind the back plate and castle nut, actually "threaded" for a super tiny hex screw or something. To actually hold or lock in the infamous little shooting spring, that helps lock in the rear pivot pin. I've never heard anybody mention anything about that. I just checked on a receiver and I think it IS actually maybe threaded. Holy crap, now I need to see if I can find a tiny machine threaded, headless screw at Ace or something. They have a bin with specifically gun machined screws too, probably would want to lubricate or oil it too. Cause it would suck if that screw got stuck or stripped in there, with such a tiny hex head.
Also not sure how short or tiny of the proper screw one can find, but unless maybe it's like 1/8th of an inch long. If it's a quarter inch or so, like the size of the bullet pin in front of the spring, it's going to have quite a bit more tension. An the spring may need to be trimmed down slightly, but wow this is kind of blowing my mind. Feel like I NEED to know if this is the case or not, for sure now lol.
You missed a few very important steps. 35ft lbs is the proper torque spec for the castle nut. And you should "stake" the castle nut in 3 spots evenly over the castle nut. Most castle nuts have staking spots to make it easier. Drive the material from the backplate down, then over at about a 45° angle. After torqing the castle nut. When you torque the castle nut, the receiver should be stable in a vise, using a vise block. To get proper torque the receiver has to be stable. The torture wrench should be attached at a 90° right angle to the castle nut wrench, to get proper torque. This is the type of video you get that gives part of the information, that leads to a failure when in use. If you want a complete video demonstrating how to do this correctly, as not to cause a failure that damages your parts, or costs you your life in a gun fight. Let me know.
Wish I would learned all this before I took mine apart and fucked it all up like I'm honestly gonna get rid on mine like it's too much for me to deal with my buffer all screwed up I can't deal with this the buffer retainer was upside down buffer upside down like I can't stand this gun I'm selling it as soon as I figure out how put back together
You forgot something. At the end push your bolt carrier group into the buffer tube and check the gap between the buffer tube and the bolt. You should be able to fit 2 quarters between the bolt and where the buffer tube screws into the lower receiver. If you can fit 3 the buffer tube is screwd in too much. If you can't fit 2 then its not screwd in enough and bolt might hit the receiver during recoil
This and the mlok video were so helpful for me. The buffer was the one part of the ar I was intimidated by building wise. Thank you so much definitely had to subscribe!
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Great tutorial! Just like YouTube USED to be.
I use a geissele receiver ext jig in a vice to do this job, isolate the lower in the vice using coins as spacers on the pistol grip flat protrusion. This way you don’t clock the tube when you torque the castle nut, if your tube rotates under torque the tooth on the backplate will dig into your soft aluminum rcvr ext and now it’s damaged.
Wait, no way.. Is the little spring loaded hole behind the back plate and castle nut, actually "threaded" for a super tiny hex screw or something. To actually hold or lock in the infamous little shooting spring, that helps lock in the rear pivot pin. I've never heard anybody mention anything about that. I just checked on a receiver and I think it IS actually maybe threaded. Holy crap, now I need to see if I can find a tiny machine threaded, headless screw at Ace or something. They have a bin with specifically gun machined screws too, probably would want to lubricate or oil it too. Cause it would suck if that screw got stuck or stripped in there, with such a tiny hex head.
Also not sure how short or tiny of the proper screw one can find, but unless maybe it's like 1/8th of an inch long. If it's a quarter inch or so, like the size of the bullet pin in front of the spring, it's going to have quite a bit more tension. An the spring may need to be trimmed down slightly, but wow this is kind of blowing my mind. Feel like I NEED to know if this is the case or not, for sure now lol.
Do you torque the castle nut?
Need to make sure you stake the castle nut at least twice.
will this work with every ar15 lower?
I suggest anyone doing this for the first time look for a long version video because he skipped over some important things
Thank you
You missed a few very important steps. 35ft lbs is the proper torque spec for the castle nut. And you should "stake" the castle nut in 3 spots evenly over the castle nut. Most castle nuts have staking spots to make it easier. Drive the material from the backplate down, then over at about a 45° angle. After torqing the castle nut. When you torque the castle nut, the receiver should be stable in a vise, using a vise block. To get proper torque the receiver has to be stable. The torture wrench should be attached at a 90° right angle to the castle nut wrench, to get proper torque. This is the type of video you get that gives part of the information, that leads to a failure when in use. If you want a complete video demonstrating how to do this correctly, as not to cause a failure that damages your parts, or costs you your life in a gun fight. Let me know.
Wish I would learned all this before I took mine apart and fucked it all up
like I'm honestly gonna get rid on mine like it's too much for me to deal with my buffer all screwed up I can't deal with this the buffer retainer was upside down 
buffer upside down like I can't stand this gun I'm selling it as soon as I figure out how put back together
Unofficial step: Send takedown spring flying across the room never to be seen again.
Should i add loctite to it ?
You didnt torque it the buffer tube.
Great short/video.
Whenever I get my next rifle…I think I want to build instead of buy!
This will no doubt be helpful for someone. Thank you.
You forgot something. At the end push your bolt carrier group into the buffer tube and check the gap between the buffer tube and the bolt. You should be able to fit 2 quarters between the bolt and where the buffer tube screws into the lower receiver. If you can fit 3 the buffer tube is screwd in too much. If you can't fit 2 then its not screwd in enough and bolt might hit the receiver during recoil
Perfect, but you didn't stake the buffer castle nut.
AND STAKE YOUR DAMN CASTLE NUT
That's a beautiful lower
You forgot to stake the castle nut.
Stake the castle nut as well
Subscribed ! Good job that was quick and right to it
Nice
This is why I am an AK dude, to lazy work on and clean AR’s
This and the mlok video were so helpful for me. The buffer was the one part of the ar I was intimidated by building wise. Thank you so much definitely had to subscribe!
Then…. Stake your castle nut you heathens!