Note to readers: Please click the share buttons above or below. Forward this article to your email lists. Crosspost on your blog site, social media, internet forums. etc.
Personally I like the “Incredible Hulk” but I prolly have tried and have 4-5 different tools, they all work, it’s down to personal choice and preference. If it works for you don’t try and fix it.
Great fix – I don’t really agree with “…perfectly staked.” In my opinion, perfectly staked favors the R/H flat on the castle nut. Too loosen, it has to rotate left. It appears there is enough gap to break torque but Im not there. I always stake with the bulge favoring the R/H flat. Great VDO as always.
The more I watched your video, the more I learned that, the details needed to build a high quality AR is more than what average people would know. Thank you so much for sharing and educating us that, in an honest world, one old saying stands true: "you get what you pay for."
Dude, I've been torquing shit since 1978, fighter jets to Boeing 787s. You can't torque that castle nut on an aluminum tube to 40 ft-lb. period, case closed, end of story…don't argue because you or whomever wrote the TM is wrong. Castle nut staking. I see it staked in the middle or even to the left of center. You want to stake that sucker as far right as possible. That's a positive safety. Middle is neutral safety, and far left, negative safety. If you stake it far right, it can't even begin to back-off.
I always learn from you, you're a very intelligent man but I must call you out on this. If you weren't such an anal retentive beast, I'd recommend a ratcheting system from PWS. There's nothing wrong with that system. Stoner disciples have a tendency to lie like Nancy Pelosi.
I 3D printed a mag block and reaction block. I use the same setup with vises also. I thought it was a little overkill in the beginning, but at least there’s someone else out there who thinks the same way.
Awesome video sir. I'm very focused on attention to detail when it comes to my firearms. As far as clocking a stock…..OMG that's one of my biggest issues. It has to be right. Thank you for sharing your method. Detail is everything. I'm going to be purchasing these items to have my AR stocks perfect.
I do not know why you take the time and go through all the trouble to make such great, informative videos, but I really appreciate that you do. I’ll bet there a lot of us out here who have learned a lot from your channel. The only downside to watching your instructions is that I have never met a tool I didn’t want. AND, you have so many cool tools.
Have a complete a2 pistol, can I put on a 16" barrel mid length gas tube, and keep pistol brace? Or does it need mid length buffer spring weight?(low on cash right now) Thanks, subbed
Wouldn’t you need to divide that 3/16 (3/32) plate thickness by two and place one on both sides to keep them in alignment before tightening the castle nut? It will be off to one side if you don’t.
I lay my lower upside down on a table with the buffer tube hanging off the table and stick a small torpedo level on the flat underside of the buffef tube. The bubble on a good level never lies
Cant believe there isn’t a jig for this exept for that polymer one you mentioned. The reaction block is worth more than the actual stripped lowers themselves, kinda odd how highly it’s been priced.
SUUUPER disappointed in Geissele for charging double on the buffer tube fixture. 200 dollars for a jig thats only good on milspec tubes? Ill use the KZ instead, 60 dollars and it works on both commercial and milspec tubes. I have both and so far haven't seen what makes the geissele worth so much more.
You do not need any bracket or anything. You should just make VICE that will hold tube a floating one. Lower receiver will center it self on lock-hold, than you can tighten floatin vice on tube. Everything will be in-line
This website uses cookies to improve your experience. We'll assume you're ok with this, but you can opt-out if you wish. Cookie settingsACCEPT
Privacy & Cookies Policy
Privacy Overview
This website uses cookies to improve your experience while you navigate through the website. Out of these cookies, the cookies that are categorized as necessary are stored on your browser as they are as essential for the working of basic functionalities of the website. We also use third-party cookies that help us analyze and understand how you use this website. These cookies will be stored in your browser only with your consent. You also have the option to opt-out of these cookies. But opting out of some of these cookies may have an effect on your browsing experience.
Necessary cookies are absolutely essential for the website to function properly. This category only includes cookies that ensures basic functionalities and security features of the website. These cookies do not store any personal information.
Just make things where or how they should be, pro needs to do a lot we don't see behind. Very comforting to see this.
Isn’t that the end plate for? To align it.
Personally I like the “Incredible Hulk” but I prolly have tried and have 4-5 different tools, they all work, it’s down to personal choice and preference. If it works for you don’t try and fix it.
Great fix – I don’t really agree with “…perfectly staked.” In my opinion, perfectly staked favors the R/H flat on the castle nut. Too loosen, it has to rotate left. It appears there is enough gap to break torque but Im not there. I always stake with the bulge favoring the R/H flat. Great VDO as always.
6, 7, or 8 position buffer tube? Is it a carbine tube? And how many inches long is that one?
The more I watched your video, the more I learned that, the details needed to build a high quality AR is more than what average people would know. Thank you so much for sharing and educating us that, in an honest world, one old saying stands true: "you get what you pay for."
I disagree about how important this issue is. BDCs… if the stock is canted enough I think it can through of your BDC/reticle.
Thanks. I frequently have this issue and it drives me nuts.
Dude, I've been torquing shit since 1978, fighter jets to Boeing 787s. You can't torque that castle nut on an aluminum tube to 40 ft-lb. period, case closed, end of story…don't argue because you or whomever wrote the TM is wrong. Castle nut staking. I see it staked in the middle or even to the left of center. You want to stake that sucker as far right as possible. That's a positive safety. Middle is neutral safety, and far left, negative safety. If you stake it far right, it can't even begin to back-off.
I always learn from you, you're a very intelligent man but I must call you out on this. If you weren't such an anal retentive beast, I'd recommend a ratcheting system from PWS. There's nothing wrong with that system. Stoner disciples have a tendency to lie like Nancy Pelosi.
Alternatively you can just mark the center on both your lower and your buffer tube
Geissele should rename that "Reaction Block" to the "OCD Block".
Awesome. I’m building a similar jig.
Nice idea. Thank you for sharing!
I 3D printed a mag block and reaction block. I use the same setup with vises also. I thought it was a little overkill in the beginning, but at least there’s someone else out there who thinks the same way.
Awesome video sir. I'm very focused on attention to detail when it comes to my firearms. As far as clocking a stock…..OMG that's one of my biggest issues. It has to be right.
Thank you for sharing your method. Detail is everything. I'm going to be purchasing these items to have my AR stocks perfect.
I do not know why you take the time and go through all the trouble to make such great, informative videos, but I really appreciate that you do. I’ll bet there a lot of us out here who have learned a lot from your channel.
The only downside to watching your instructions is that I have never met a tool I didn’t want. AND, you have so many cool tools.
200 buffer tube vise….
Best tools I have ever seen down to the smallest detail, things I never knew were things until I started watching SOTAR
4:17 – wow! Haven’t seen a Mega Arms monolithic upper wrench in ages. I’ll bet there’s only a handful of people who even know what that was haha
Could you use a complete lower with a properly timed buffer tube to align the vices?
Seems like too much for just the castle nut but eh I'm no gunsmith just a picky guy with a hobby
Have a complete a2 pistol, can I put on a 16" barrel mid length gas tube, and keep pistol brace? Or does it need mid length buffer spring weight?(low on cash right now) Thanks, subbed
You never sees to amaze, got to make it to your class, thanks Chad
A man of many vices. 🤣
Wouldn’t you need to divide that 3/16 (3/32) plate thickness by two and place one on both sides to keep them in alignment before tightening the castle nut? It will be off to one side if you don’t.
If you only put a shim on one side, won't that be asymmetrical?
I lay my lower upside down on a table with the buffer tube hanging off the table and stick a small torpedo level on the flat underside of the buffef tube. The bubble on a good level never lies
I still can't visualize why two shims aren't needed to stay center. Oh well…
"timing"
Dude. Great video. Can you show other ways of doing this?
When I was first building rifles this was such a pain.
A
I enjoy your videos thanks. Where did you get your grease containers with brush? Thanks
$200 for that reaction block is absurd. Is there a cheaper alternative?
Cant believe there isn’t a jig for this exept for that polymer one you mentioned. The reaction block is worth more than the actual stripped lowers themselves, kinda odd how highly it’s been priced.
Kind sir thanks for the videos and information very informative and do you sell stickers of your logo . 🔫🦅🇺🇸🐸
SUUUPER disappointed in Geissele for charging double on the buffer tube fixture. 200 dollars for a jig thats only good on milspec tubes? Ill use the KZ instead, 60 dollars and it works on both commercial and milspec tubes. I have both and so far haven't seen what makes the geissele worth so much more.
I had a PSA bolt shear right at the cam pin while shooting M855. Thoughts?
Just so you know…. YouTube has a content warning for this video…. The fact that I have seen all the others….. Didn't click… Shesh
You do not need any bracket or anything. You should just make VICE that will hold tube a floating one. Lower receiver will center it self on lock-hold, than you can tighten floatin vice on tube. Everything will be in-line