Home AR-15 Everything about shooting steel targets

Everything about shooting steel targets

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There are a lot of questions and even misinformation floating around out there about the use of steel targets. In this episode we discuss why you should shoot steel, what’s safe, what isn’t safe and what makes a good quality steel target.

The Military Arms Channel is NOT conducting the Challenge Target giveaway and is NOT collecting any information for the giveaway. The giveaway is being done strictly by Challenge Targets who is not affiliated with the Military Arms Channel in any way. I am only informing you about their giveaway.

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38 COMMENTS

  1. that's insane the steel cost when you can shoot paper for next to nothing. paper targets are free to down load all over the internet. to me paper gives you a better feel how accurate you are and the gun is shooting. don't get me wrong; not knocking the steel. some people get there rock's off hearing the ping; so which ever turns you on or trips your trigger; go for it. oh; i forgot to mention; i can buy a lot more ammo for that savings since i don't get perks; just telling it like it is!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

  2. One thing to consider for us in California is the potential for a spark to form. The brush is very dry. Not me, but close friends that I trust said they saw a spark cause a small fire once. Public land is hard enough to get to around me as it is. Northern California is dry, but the ground is not sand, it is long dry brush. If firefighters had to come, I don't even want to think of the backlash from the local community, and I couldn't say I would disagree. I wouldn't want to shoot steel here unless it was surrounded by sand. The ground is perfect soft dry tinder.

  3. Your friend shooting 30 yards, 308, FMJ is a fool, someone should take his guns away, don't scare people for the benefit of your sales info commercial! Use some common sense & everyone has fun!

  4. I find it absolutely ludicrous that you brag about Target Steel plates with pistol rounds coming back and slapping down onto your roof structure and being no danger. This hot bullet materials can certainly cause very damaging injury to skin tissue and absolutely cause eye damage. How about bullet fragments that don't fall directly onto the roof and how about the fact that most shooters don't utilize a roofed shooting area. Your video should be emphasizing that the precautions are absolutely necessary to guarantee bullet fragments not coming back from steel targets. I would agree that the steel targets having the angled design to direct bullet impacts to the ground is most beneficial but be forewarned bullet fragments coming back at shooters and people in the area of the shooter are a real happening even at 100 plus yards shooting. Your recording observations, making hypotheses, and predicting future results is far short of the damage easily caused by shooting at steel targets in spite of steel target placement and steel plate target quality or hardness.

  5. I've been using a few dozen old rail spur bases … never had a problem with them yet. .22 and 9mm aren't killing them yet. The 4 square holes are filled with carriage bolts. 50m is the closest I get to them. The ones at 500m are 4 plates welded together. They all hang in the weather all year long and the crazy paint on them keeps the birds away. Free railway metal and a few hours of welding = years and years of fun.

  6. Thanks for the info! I also checked out Challenge Target and I love how they have realistic heads on their steel targets. Once my tax refund check gets in, I know where it's going! Thanks for the great video!

  7. No paint, bullets create dangerous sharp-edged craters.
    Painted white, becomes ar500 steel………JK ๐Ÿ™‚
    Been shooting mild steel for years at 200+ yards with no issues. However, I recently bought my very first ar500 steel for the same distances. Will be interesting and actually excited. Didn't pay $100+ for it though. $35 for a 7×12 steel…Amazon. Thank you, MAC and Challenge Targets for this video.

  8. Material properties of steel are quite slear on high carbon steels. Higher heat affected zones will lose their Brinell Hardness by a larger factor than lower heat affected zones… I understand the non-scientific practicality of your test but the metallurgical qualities are science, not opinion.

  9. That Target is way overpriced! All the materials that are used and put together to make that steel target is less than $30. They are overcharging and ripping people off, and they take pride in doing so.

  10. of course they would take a rifle to mild steel I bet that same piece of steal would be fine for hand gun shooting I know a guy who shoots billet aluminum that's 2iches thick and he's shot them with a shit ton of 9mm 40s&w and 45acp

  11. Yes, shooting steel with Center Fire RIFLES can be hazardous, and the NATO ROUNDS, the penetrators, are especially dangerous and they will damage or maybe DESTROY your Steel Targets whether they are AR 500 550 or not if you shoot enough rounds in to them. It appears to ME once the surface gets "pock marked" with divits this will affect performance, but I am not an expert.

    But I have shot Mild steel and other types of steel with HANDGUNS and shotguns for years. I have shot Mild Steel and other types of steel with 357 Magnum and 40 S&W, though if you use that it should be one half inch thick. I also shoot PIPE as I have a lot of that around. Works for me.

    Mild steel has SOME advantages as long as you shoot them properly. They can even be REPAIRED by welding them and grinding smooth, though it is usually cheaper in time to just make some more and scrap the old target.

    I am not a "target expert" nor do I claim to be an "expert" at anything, but I was in the Welding Business for years when I was young. Welding on the Back of Hard steel targets could result in Annealing them as the heat is applied and then the SLOW air cooling does allow it to either anneal or if it cools quickly or is "quenched" it will make it brittle most likely especially in the HAZ, the "Heat Affected Zone" of the WELD. It depends on what material you weld it with and the ambient temperature and other "conditions" etc. To weld them they should be Preheated, then welded with a Low Hydrogen process, then post heated. But one would need to know the "Critical Temperature" and time to be treated to do all of that. In other words it would COST more than it is worth and would most likley get a poor result.

    In other words, you are correct, don't weld the AR 500 or other steels unless you know what you are doing. MANY metals can lose their properties being welded improperly or having HEAT appied to them. It would be cost prohibitting (or maybe impossible) to weld these targets then "treat them" back to original properties or even a satisfactory condition. Welding on the back prevents the user from "REVERSING the target" as well.

    The green tip NATO rounds are especially dangerous as the steel CORE all by itself may richochet back to the operator. It could easily put out an eye, might even defeat safety glases depending on the quality of the Glasses. That steel core can come back traveling VERY FAST. Steel against Steel can give a really good BOUNCE to the moving piece.

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