Home CMMG AR 15 Buffer Weights Explained: Carbine, Rifle, H1, H2, H3

AR 15 Buffer Weights Explained: Carbine, Rifle, H1, H2, H3

2885
28

Get all the information you need on AR 15 buffers including, how to remove your buffer spring from your buffer tube, which buffer weight (Carbine, Rifle, H1, H2, or H3) works best with which caliber, pistol buffers, tungsten buffer weights, and picking the right length ar buffer for your rifle or pistol. Each AR 15 is different and choosing the right buffer is essential for mitigating recoil and insuring reliability for your BCG. Pick the best ar buffer for your build with our extensive guide! Comment your favorite buffer type and caliber below!

🔥 Popular Uppers from Bear Creek Arsenal 🔥
16″ 5.56 NATO: Search 617-
16″ Side Charging 5.56 NATO: 912-
16″ Side Charging .223 Wylde: 915-
10.5″ Side Charging 5.56 NATO: 914-

NEW VIDEO PLATFORM! ⤵️
Subscribe on Rumble:

Follow us on:
Instagram:
Facebook:
Parler:
MeWe:

Note to readers: Please click the share buttons above or below. Forward this article to your email lists. Crosspost on your blog site, social media, internet forums. etc.

28 COMMENTS

  1. Okay so I actually have your guys 7.5 inch 300 blackout, an I actually love the heavy felt recoil, I want to actually feel the recoil, which butter could I put in the buffer tube in order to achieve that harder kick ?

  2. so installed a rare breed FRT trigger the last rd of the 5.56 fails to fire and will not throw the BCG back to let me know it's empty not mater which kind of mag i try that would mean i need a h2 right. i am currently using a carbine . i would like to get the Super 42 Braided Wire Buffer Spring and Buffer Combo, H1 from "Geissele" . i dont want to be out the money if i do get it and it don't work. you think that would help? i have the M&P 15 sport with a FRT trigger

  3. Really surprised this dude missed at least SIX major points – 1) the size of the gas port in the barrel (how much gas gets out) 2) the size of the gas port in the gas block (metering how much gas gets through to the gas tube) 3) the length of the gas system (pistol, carbine, mid, intermed, rifle) 4) the length of the barrel and resulting dwell time 5) whether you are shooting suppressed or unsuppressed and 6) what type of ammo you are shooting (hot NATO loads vs. cheap low power steel case). All these impact cycling, reliability, feel, and parts wear and factor into choosing the right buffer. And there is wayyyy to much mixing and matching of parts going on in the community for any hard and fast rules espoused by one dude, you just have to figure out the right buffer and spring weight (and possible change to an adjustable gas block) on your own based on what you've assembled in your build in order to get it to run properly for what you are shooting. And btw, to keep the cost and price down, most manufacturers include a cheap carbine buffer (3 steel slugs vs. more expensive tungsten plugs) in the rifle – that doesn't mean it's the right answer, just the cheap answer.

    As a result, his massive oversimplification is misleading and wrong. Probably shouldn't be speaking on behalf of any manufacturer, but at least we know why Bear Creek is bottom tier.

  4. i have BCA 10.5" 350 legend barrel and a BCA bolt carrier group in my pistol build with a 2.9oz carbine buffer. and getting the issue you described loads first round, fires and ejects fine but does not pull the next round out of the magazine at all!! any suggestions on buffer size and anything to remedy this problem…emailed BCA multiple times NO replies

  5. Gas port size, barrel size, and whether shooting suppressed, also play into which buffer weight you should use. I have a short 10.3” with a larger .070 gas port, that uses an h2 when suppressed and unsuppressed.

Leave a Reply