Here we test 4 different firing pins designed for the CMMG 22lr kit. The four firing pins tested are the CMMG, BoreBuddy Premium Round and Crescent, and Taccom. The firing pins were tested in a CMMG 4.5″ dedicated upper with the BoreBuddy Light Bolt Weight and CCI SV ammo.
Alex’s Spreadsheet with Successful FRT configurations
BoreBuddy 22lr Light Bolt Weight
BoreBuddy Premium Firing Pins
Taccom Firing Pin
Note to readers: Please click the share buttons above or below. Forward this article to your email lists. Crosspost on your blog site, social media, internet forums. etc.
Also for anyone who wants to read my .22 FRT guide first join this Facebook group:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/846909159411487/
Then you can access it here:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/846909159411487/permalink/976930253076043/
Awesome to see your still here
Hi there and thank you very much for all the great info, advice and videos you have dedicated your time to in sharing your wisdom, knowledge and findings/results on how to get a FRT to cycle well in a 22LR conversion.
I am working with a DPMS with a 16 inch barrel, I have the cmmg bravo setup along with everything BoreBuddy offers- the stimulus package with adjustable weights, the plug, the recoil/buffer 3 spring kit, the charging handle, etc. I have tried everything and can not get it to cycle unless I am using Augila Super Maximum rounds. I had 25 and haven't been able to find them anywhere. I have tried Federal Auto-Match, CCI AR-TACTICAL, MINI-MAG, CCI BLAZER, GOLDEN BULLETS, ARMSCOR HV 36GR CPRN, AND EVEN STINGERS and all of these result in 1 rd fire, eject, new round in chamber but hammer FTR everytime. I was thinking maybe I should trim the hammer spring legs to reduce pressure and maybe it would reset the hammer then? Or what about blocking the gas port would that create more blow back force? I have tried everything I can think of to insure that it should work, checking fit and clearances, marking all surfaces to check that theres no interference of the bolt movement, I did file the bolt hold lock a tiny bit because it was close, and also to promote ZERO vertical and lateral movement of the conversion bolt in the upper I trimmed a piece of brass shim stock and wrapped the tail section because the fit was just a tad too loose for precision. Plus, after doing so, helped my 100 yard groupings with the single shots.
WHAT AM I MISSING HERE? I have tried all combinations of weights, with & without buffer pad, plug, etc.
I am running it supressed also which should provide more blow back force. I have NOT tried it without the can because it makes no sense to when having this issue where only the most powerful rounds available will reset the hammer- Augila Super Maximum are definitely more powerful than the Stingers I purchased. PLEASE HELP!!! THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!!!
Thanks for the shoutout! Been checking almost daily for this test, and found your results to be very interesting and helpful to know, which I will be updating my guide to reflect the outcome of your test! But your theory on the firing pins makes sense that it isn't much of a factor (unlike the correct sear trip timing and bolt weight).
When you tested the Bore Buddy Firing Pin did you use their new lighter firing pin spring or their heavier spring?
Welcome back
I dont plan on getting a frt but own a banshee upper just like that, i got a borebuddy weight system because of your vids. A little upset that they came out with a light weight version for shorter barrels after i had just got one. I enjoy your videos, i'll subscribe. Someone should make a titanium firing with a moon shaped tip to maximize the impact surface, lol. Have you tried accu-wedge? Maybe it'll help keep the upper from moving around. Also, i suggest delete the forward assist with a plug since your running the borebuddy weight system, i deleted mine. Thank you.