How to PROPERLY dimple a barrel & install a Set Screw gas block

I'll jump in before any "drill press" comments pop up. 'Shouldn't you use a drill press?'. This really depends on the type of jig…

The newest SLR Rifleworks 5-spacing jig, as seen in this video, is not so much intended for use in a vice/press, in fact it's intended more for use with a hand drill as shown in this video. The drill bushing is more than long enough to facilitate proper alignment so that is a non-issue.

Some jigs, like the KVP jig for example, are designed to function in a vice and work with a press.

Regardless, both methods when using the proper jig and proper process will result in an equally functional end product.

Whew…good thing I ordered a kit and they dimpled it (a year or two ago just snapped it together last weekend) 😎 thank you for clarifying the use of the dimple etc.

Very informative video – thanks.

Loctite 246 is the correct application here.

great video very informative thank you

I've heard that Kroil penetrating oil can break a Rocksett lock.
If so, not sure how long to wait after applying.
Anyone know if this is true?
Thanks in advance.
(Great video, BTW. Much appreciated.)

A1/A2 front sight bases and low profile gas blocks don't hit the barrel shoulder. There should be approx 0.025" gap to account for the steel hand guard cap if the gas port was drilled to Mil-Spec. If it is shoved all the way back to the shoulder the port will be misaligned and not be installed correctly.

How necessary is doing a dimple? It’s not something a little bit of thread locker could do?

That is super slick. Just doing a new build and the barrel is NOT dimpled. Looks like I need this little jig. Thanks. Very helpful.

New drinking game – take a shot for every mention of Brownells

Great video/instruction – thank you!

I shot 50 rounds out of my brand new AR and then shells stopped ejecting. after tons of consulting friends and the interwebs i almost gave up. I just inspected my ar and noticed the gas tube and block is sliding forward up the barrel. I'm really hoping thats why my shells were not ejecting and also why i had to mortar my rifle just to get the bolt back out of the chamber. so i guess i need to figure out how to line up that gas hole with the tube and tighten it down?

why only 1 dimple for 2 screws?

Dude… by far the best video on this topic I've seen on the net. Thanks very much for putting this out there!

if my set screws are 10-32 X 1/4 do i still use the 5/32 drill bit?

Nice video, but unnecessarily LONG,,, and lots of talking… I literately felt asleep while watching…

Hi, what is the name of the company that made the dimpling jig?

Loctite 2422 is a 650 degree stable blue threadlocker that I have used on most of my gas blocks and it has never let go.

love the video, great resource. however, maybe i missed it but i didnt seem to notice you mentioning how deep the drill should go into the barrel, obviously not too light or too deep, but what "feel" do you think in depth is good for the purpose of securing the gas block?

What about staking the set screws the same way you would the carrier key screws?

Man i hate to say it, but after two nights of going to town with the Bosch bit that you recommend, at least on an Aero CMV barrel, it doesn’t cut it. How long would you say you should have to spend drilling? I’ve spent probably a total of 45 minutes (drill spinning) trying to get this dimple done and it’s still not quite there. This is with the SLR jig. Drill for about 10 seconds, stop, check, ten more seconds, rinse repeat… there’s a dimple there now but it’s not quite finished. I finally broke down and ordered a carbide bit.

I install the stripped carrier when installing the gas block/gas tube in order to check the tube/ key alignment. Any contact is a nogo

Great video. What is your opinion of clamp on blocks? Should I avoid those?