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Don't use red Locktite, use blue Locktite. If you use red, you will not be able to get the screws/bolts off again without drilling out the screws/bolts. Blue Locktite is semi-permanent and will hold just fine, but allow removal later if needed. Lithium grease is a good thread prep for the barrel nut.
You don't get anti seizing Greece. Because it contains different metals I can corrode aluminum. barrel Grease is what you need Also when you are seasoning the threads. You tighten it to torque. loosen it, tighten it to torque again, loosen it in and tighten it. torque again. And you torque wrench needs to be at 90゚. you way over torque that the way you just did it. because you made your wrench longer because you added the other wrench to it. The 60 pounds I wanted to put on it you just put a 100 pounds on it. Holy shit head spacing doesn't have anything to do with how far your bolt Carrier sticks out of the back your rifle. It's how the bolt closes/ locks into the barrel with a round in it. I understand it's not very difficult to build a rifle. But when you're making videos showing people how to do it. you should probably not misinforme them in case somebody gets hurt. Badly hurt because you told them head spacing isn't a big deal as long as they're bolt Carrier group doesn't stick pass the rear of the upper.
blue red and green loctite all have the exact same temp range -65 to 300f the difference is blue is removable red is not green is applyed after assembly so guys do not use red use blue nice build brother a straight gas tube might work out better for you
Your description of head space is entirely wrong! All you can check with your method is the mating between the bolt face and the barrel. It tells you nothing about headspace. You absolutely need to us a go/no-go gauge to check headspace on any new barrel or one you have never installed on your rifle. If you don't and the headspace is wrong, dire consequences can occur.
Pretty good vid! However the mil spec way to torque a barrel nut is to actually put a torque wrench on it and torque it to 30 ft lbs 3 times, when u just use ur hands like that, it really doesn't "pre stretch" the threads at all. Also u can buy a container of aeroshell 33ms for 5 bucks. Its the only true mil spec grease for ar barrel nuts.
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We’re can I find a 7.5 in barrel
HEY U RICHARD NEVER USE A EXTENSION OR ANY ADAPTER ON A TORQUE WRENCH………………………
Don't use red Locktite, use blue Locktite. If you use red, you will not be able to get the screws/bolts off again without drilling out the screws/bolts. Blue Locktite is semi-permanent and will hold just fine, but allow removal later if needed. Lithium grease is a good thread prep for the barrel nut.
You don't get anti seizing Greece. Because it contains different metals I can corrode aluminum. barrel Grease is what you need
Also when you are seasoning the threads. You tighten it to torque. loosen it, tighten it to torque again, loosen it in and tighten it. torque again.
And you torque wrench needs to be at 90゚. you way over torque that the way you just did it. because you made your wrench longer because you added the other wrench to it. The 60 pounds I wanted to put on it you just put a 100 pounds on it.
Holy shit head spacing doesn't have anything to do with how far your bolt Carrier sticks out of the back your rifle. It's how the bolt closes/ locks into the barrel with a round in it.
I understand it's not very difficult to build a rifle. But when you're making videos showing people how to do it. you should probably not misinforme them in case somebody gets hurt. Badly hurt because you told them head spacing isn't a big deal as long as they're bolt Carrier group doesn't stick pass the rear of the upper.
Wish you would have had more light in there would have really enjoyed seeing this done not in the dark
blue red and green loctite all have the exact same temp range -65 to 300f the difference is blue is removable red is not green is applyed after assembly so guys do not use red use blue nice build brother a straight gas tube might work out better for you
You should put the BCG into the action when torquing the barrel. It provides protection against crushing and twisting.
Your description of head space is entirely wrong! All you can check with your method is the mating between the bolt face and the barrel. It tells you nothing about headspace. You absolutely need to us a go/no-go gauge to check headspace on any new barrel or one you have never installed on your rifle. If you don't and the headspace is wrong, dire consequences can occur.
Can you verify the gastube brand that you are using please.
Pretty good vid! However the mil spec way to torque a barrel nut is to actually put a torque wrench on it and torque it to 30 ft lbs 3 times, when u just use ur hands like that, it really doesn't "pre stretch" the threads at all. Also u can buy a container of aeroshell 33ms for 5 bucks. Its the only true mil spec grease for ar barrel nuts.
Great vid man, hope you get the issue figured out soon!