We test out the new Streamlight TLR RM1 500 lumen and TLR RM2 1,000 lumen rail mount lights, compare their beam pattern, and discuss what I think of them overall 🔦
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The RM-1 is also a great choice for someone looking for a lightweight set up.
I always recommend my friends Streamlight, Surefire, or Arisaka. Streamlight for more affordable options then Surefire.
Would those fit up snug with the Surefire scout mounts, like the previous versions? Looks like based on their shape, there may be an issue if you wanted it up at 1 o'clock. Maybe not, but curious.
If I mount the rm1 on top a flat rail ar with a cowitness height red dot will it take up my field of view?
rm2 vs streamlight hl-x
How do you attach that pressure pad? it comes with the sticky part and those little rail looking things? Sitting here looking at mine like a confused ape.
I havnt run the TLR RM 2 before but I have run the inforce he’s compares it to at night and in cars. Inforce couldn’t cut through the gun smoke and it’s tough to see what you’re engaging. Which is not good. My Surefires all worked great and I didn’t have that issue. I’d love to see you actually run this at night while firing in different scenarios to see if it actually works. I’m still searching for a via competitor to the surefire! FYI My comments above are from running a rifle, not a pistol. Inforce and my TLR pistol lights work great at night. Just my two cents.
Good for HD….but don’t expect long throw. The rubber tail cap is worst design ever, falls out with slight bump.
How would you compare/contrast the TLR RM2 with the PROTAC® RAIL MOUNT 2 ? (consider intended use is for home defense on a tactical 12ga shotgun) Looking at the specs, the TLR RM2 is 1k lumens @10k candella, and the PROTAC RM2 is listed as 625 lumens @22k candella….!?!?
How is the rm2 through an optic?
so is this better the TLR 1HL?
Subscribed. I like people that are smarter than me but don't make me feel like an idiot.
My dad will be getting one of these to remove predators from chicken coops and bears from plum trees.
Can u run the light from the thumb switch when the pressure pad is installed still? (example- when moving support hand to rear hand guard position for pressure pad then back to front for thumb switch) Or does that delete that option when pressure pad is installed?
Do iron sights clear if it's mounted at the 12 o'clock position on a AR15?
Do they come with mlok mounting option or would you have a get a piece of pic rail
Is the pressure switch plug a standard plug like is used for a DBAL / PEQ15? I'm considering this thing to use in conjunction with a visible laser I already have, but would prefer to throw both on a Unity Tactical TAPS if possible. Unfortunately they only really offer connectors for DBALs and Surefires. The plug looks pretty similar, but I haven't been able to get a good answer yet.
Is the tailcap interface the same as a Surefire?
I wonder if the tlr9 end cap is interchangeable with the rm2
Good review. Thanks for addressing real world applications like beam pattern. So many channels only care about lumens and throw.
I have an older tlr vir i think. It has the ir and vis option. Its awesome
Bought a new inforce designed like the TLR #Crap….didnt work right out of the box!!! Ended up purchasing the TLR-RM2
Which one is best to mount at 12 o’clock on the rail of the Stribog?
What are you using for cable management? What’s the band holding the wire?
is that levan polkka?
Can you put the tailcap from that rm2 on a tlr 9??
Does the new pressure switch have a way to make it stay on or is it just momentary?
Do you know how many 1913 slots it takes up? Need to know to order 5 or 7 slot rail for my m lok
I finally got me one of these on order. I prefer running my lights at 12 o’clock. That way you only get shadow where your peripheral vision is already blocked by the rifle. It gives you the largest view around the gun. A light at any other location increases shadowing which can lead to missed targets down low. Most of my other rifle lights are set at the 10-11 o’clock position which creates a blind spot from about 3 o’clock to 6 o’clock. Room clearing in the shoot house has shown it’s easy to miss targets hiding low and right of my position around a corner as I pie the door. I required me to drop the rifle low and leave myself vulnerable to check that location. I never have the problem with my rifle with a TLR1 at the 12 o’clock. I just hate the TLR1 switch. It gets turned on to easy. I’ve had problems with it getting turned on in my bag and during the day running drills.
Nothing beats a Maglite 6d incandescent
Would it be an issue running this light on an AR without the long gun kit, or is the tape switch Necessary?
I've been teaching low-light courses for about 20 years. I've been looking forward to these products from Streamlight. However, It's a bit of a "definition of terms" problem when people get into the, "X amount of light will blind you" discussion. Blind is the incorrect term. It won't "blind" you. Will it have a drastic effect on your low-light vision and depth perception for a few moments after activation in a room that reflects/transmits light well? Yes, it will. That's why Surefire used to only produce personal lights below the 300-lumen range for their first decade or so. One hundred lumens is more than enough at room clearing distance for both good depth perception, color detail/clarity, and even causing sensory overload when directed into the eyes. You technically don't need more than that for average use distances. Having said that, and stating that technically the "more light the better" is not always correct, you also aren't going to be at too much of a deficit with proper technique using the higher-powered systems. Most of the time, you could actually use the side-bloom with the spot aimed at the floor and still be fine. I use low power nav lights for moving around and basic illumination. I don't turn on the sun-spot until I want to have a more distant throw or want to have someone slam their eyes shut for a bit. I like bright lights because of their versatility for moving between interior and exterior conditions, but you don't really need them.