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see fair use notice act at own risk
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You have the dimensions of the middle gap by any chance? Obviously I can get the height from counting the 1/2" plywoods. I was thinking about using a 2×4 split with a hole in it and clamping it on the barrel since that's steel and not aluminum, or wrapping something around the upper in your design for protecting it. Not anything thick obviously, just maybe a piece of towel for grip and also to prevent scratching the upper.
No one hate we are all here because we don’t have any cash left after purchasing that over priced barrel we all need
Bought a upper vise block from Windham weaponry for $45. Seen them at cabela's for $35 and comes with gas tube alignment tool. You can also get a cheap 3 1/2" vise at Lowes for $35.
Dude midwayusa got them good price too
but a vise block is $15 on ebay?
this is a good way to destroy a upper
Wish I could shake your hand. You just saved me a lot of headache, frustration, time, money and possibly a broken part or firearm. Very clever and smart idea! Worked like a hard for me getting my barrel nut off.
genius, this worked perfectly. I have a vise but I put this whole setup in the vise and it made everything work perfectly
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Nice, helped me out in a bind with no vise block available.
Sure, it works but I dont recommend this method.
Vice blocks help spread the contact evenly over the upper frame. This helps eliminate the possibility of the upper from being twisted or damaged. But if you're in a pinch this is useful!
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Using a wrench on your torque wrench directly in line with the shaft of the torque wrench multiplies the leverage applied to the torque measuring device. Long story short, you're doing it wrong, and as a result you're not torquing the nut to spec, rather you're under torquing it due to the increased length of the lever. Easy fix….turn the torque adapter (your armorers wrench) 90° to the torque wrench. This eliminates torque multiplication by placing the pivot (load) in line with the end of the torque wrench and eliminates the resultant under torqued situation on the barrel nut.
ADD-ON to last posting. YOU NEED AN ALUMINIUM BLOCK or HOMEMADE 2×4 block with 3/4 hole drilled, and split in half. I was trying to say IN YEARS GONE BY, BARREL WAS HELD IN VISE DIRECTLY. None of these receiver blocks.
Is that punching in a dream I hear in the background?
MILITARY HOLD, Military hold is placing barrel in vise, directly. US ARMY TM-1005-249-23&P page 3-31 show how. The vise blocks civilians use isn,t used in USMC armories ( not during my years in service 1975-1979 ) Just protect barrel from scratching on the vise.
Perfect solution, can't wait to do this tomorrow =)
Thanks
Great concept, unfortunately I think my AR was assembled by an armorer with anger issues, everything I've done to it has been an absolute battle. Tried this and the upper dug right into the wood and ripped a chunk out without budging the nut… guess I'll have to actually shell out the cash for a real vice block…
Great thinking outside the box man
And maybe put a protective something around the inside
Ratcheting clamps would work great I bet, without having to screw screws in and out
pretty clever…