Battlesight Zero is usually done at 25 and or 50 Yards. The Marines use a 33 Yard BZO I’m Told. Here are the reasons why I use the 50 BZO vs. a 25 Yard BZO
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What if, in a home defense situation, you miss or the target evades the shot @50 yd zero The bullet keeps rising, making everything and everyone behind tango in the line of fire, a 100 yd zero places every shot @ poa or lower, reducing the probability of collateral damage, neighbors, pedestrians etc
I recently watched a video explaining the math as to point of impact on different zero distances. For a battle rifle the 36yard zero was by far the best for speed and accuracy. A 36yard zero gives you a point of impact of 5 1/2 inches from zero to 300 yards. So the size of a CD and you dont have to remember tour holds at all. Vigilance elites Shawn Ryan was the one who did the video I believe. Check it out.
I hate to bother you, or your viewers, but maybe someone can answer TWO questions I have.
I am setting up a 300BO A.R. for my wife.., for hog/whitetail hunting. She wears glasses, & doesn't shoot much. Because of this, I wanted a lot of eye relief, a lot of magnification.., (w/o going overboard).., & straight forward duplex reticle. I settled on a Nikon M223, 3-12×42 w/ Nikoplex reticle scope.
All shots will be between 25 & 150 yards. Now.., I know this scope IS overboard for a 300BO.., but again.., please consider that I am trying to 'fit' a specific shooter.., & don't want to end up losing injured game.
In the situation of: If the scope is @ 3x, shooting @ 25 yards, or 12x, shooting @ 150 yards.., or anywhere in between..,
1. Does this affect POA/POI relationship?
2. At what yardage should we set zero, so that POI is within 1" of any intended POA, (*outside of shooter error)?
I apologize if these are rudimentary questions.., but, I too, have limited shooting knowledge.
Thank you.
I really appreciate your time..,
I believe your trajectory data is wrong!
Huh, I chose 50 yards for a completely different reason. We shoot clays as targets, which are 4". I dug around on some maximum point blank range calculators for the 55 grain bullets. A 50 yard zero puts the bullet within a 4 inch circle out past 250 yards. I'm using Magpul flip up MBUS sights, but I use a 2.5" sight height. So far they are pretty good out to 150 yards. I haven't tried at 200 yet. Well, I did, but I was all messed up and missed with about 20 shots, so I had to back up and recalculate.
Wat if you don't have axxcess to a 50yd only 25yd range here in Miami
Are these the numbers for the 20” rifle and what ammo, M193, M855, etc? How much are these numbers changed with the 16” barrel? Thanks.
i zero my ARs at 25 yds, with that , if i aim center mass out to any range up to 400 yds or so im gonna hit the coc$suc&&r anywhere between his diaphragm and his neck . thats good enough for me . zeroed my primary arms gen 2 5x yesterday and have to say its an awesome piece. shot after shot into basically one ragged hole .
Nothing like dumbing down the masses. Gov't troops are going to be smacking shit out you at double the range you're advertising.
I have yet to not drop a deer or hog with a 25/300 meter zero on my irons, which btw are all I use, out to 250 meters. My property being somewhat open. The reason I haven't hit one further is while not jungle my land isn't Kansas either and there are those pesky neighbors. Kinda like them so I avoid shallow ricochet prone shots.
If you plan to fire up your neighborhood block a 50m zero looks great. You move into the boonies, you're a pork chop.
The most helpful video I've seen so far. Thank you.
On your 3rd diagram down, (zeroed at 50 yrds), where would the POI be at 10 yrds? How about the POI at 25 yards? I want to utilize my Red Dot equipped weapons accurately for close quarters home defense, but also sometimes out 50 – 150 yards. Awesome video!! THANK YOU!!
Folks might want to produce a battle sight zero (BSZ) when using as issued BDC detachable carry handle sight, since the “Battle Sight Zero,” when synced to the BDC function, supports engagement of unknown distance targets, allowing the shooter to aim center mass on an “E” type target and achieve a hit from muzzle to 300 meters with bullet impacting no more than 10 inches above point of aim, and hit to 350 meters with bullet impacting no more than 10 inches below point of aim. In fact, utilizing the whole 20 inches of target below center of mass hold allows the shooter to hit a target out to 400 meters.
Once zeroed for a 300-meter battle sight zero, the elevation wheel can then be hastily re-adjusted for engagement of known distance targets beyond 300 meters. This adjustment is known as Bullet Drop Compensation. The numbers on the elevation wheel represent distances in meters. Bottoming out the wheel to 6/3 the BDC is set for 300 meters. Clicking up to 4, or 5 adjusts the trajectory of the round to engage targets at the corresponding distance (i.e. 4=400m, 5=500m). One full revolution up from 300 correlates to the number 6 on the left side of the 3. Thus set, elevation is now adjusted for 600 meters.
Begin zeroing by clicking front sight post to where its base is flush with the deck of the front sight base. Next, set the small rear sight aperture, also known as the “daylight” aperture, in the up position (the larger aperture is only used when visibility is limited, shooting inside 200 meters); and, turn rear sight windage knob to align index line located on the top of the large aperture’s outside rim with center index line located on the back of the rear sight’s base. Next, turn the rear sight elevation wheel counter clock-wise to bottom it out and then click it clock-wise to index the wheel’s 6/3 marking to the index line located on the left side of the carry handle above the elevation wheel.
Now, because the path of the bullet will intersect line of sight twice when zeroing to any finite distance, this is how it is possible to sight-in the M16-A4 for a 300 meter zero at 32 meters, or the M4 at 25 meters. If precluded to a 25-meter range when sighting-in the M16-A4, you can compensate for the 32-meter to 25-meter offset by setting the M16-A4’s BDC 2 clicks clock-wise beyond the 6/3 setting, which will place the BDC wheel at the “Z” marking.
So, using a big enough target to consistently understand the sight/target relationship, set the target out to available sight-in distance; and, using a center of mass hold, shoot 5 rounds from a stable position to produce a group on the target. Triangulate the group, excluding bad shots, to define the group’s center point; and, adjust sights to move next grouping to target’s center. Adjust elevation from front sight by turning sight post in counter clock-wise direction to move bullet point of impact down. Turn post in clock-wise direction to move bullet point of impact up. One click of post will move M16-A4 bullet point of impact 1.25 MOA, or M4 bullet point of impact 1.75 MOA. Adjust windage by turning windage knob clock-wise to move bullet point of impact right. Turn knob counter clock-wise to move bullet point of impact left. One click of knob will move M16-A4 bullet point of impact .50 MOA, or M4 bullet point of impact .75 MOA.. And, remember, if you sighted-in the M16-A4 at 25 meters, rather than 32 meters, you now need to turn the elevation wheel counter clock-wise 2 clicks, which will index the 6/3 marking to the index line on the carry handle above the elevation wheel. Thus set, the rifle is now zeroed for 300 meters and synchronized for a bullet drop compensation function. Creds: US Distinguished Rifleman, SAFS and SDM Instructor.
You got some seriously messed up numbers
Zeroing correctly at 25m using a Canadian bullseye, the round will rise to the line of sight at 250m, it will never go above line of site, at 250m it will begin fall and at 300m will be slightly below line of sight.
TURN UP THE VOLUME! Idiot! Why are the experts soooooooo fat?
Rangers don't know how to read? All paperwork done verbally?
36 is without a doubt the best.
Right on the side of the box on quality ammo
False info, Read your ballistics. That bullet drops 1.5 inches from the barrel and rises 2” at 100 yards and levels at 200 yards. With a level barrel. That bullet is an air foil. Where did you get that crazy stuff. Zero is 200. Read your ballistics. .
I'm a fan of the 36 yard zero, that way you get the best of both worlds by splitting the difference.
You have one point of aim out to 300 yards, with only a few inches high or low.
But to each there own.
Great video and good explanation.
Thanks.
First 5 seconds no matter how well it is explained no one wants to listen to someone that's like ok dumb ass let me make it as simple for the regular retards cause I'm just some regular ol narsist. From a war 50 years ago. Now I have nothing but respect for our men and woman in uniform and if you served you deserve that but just because you did don't mean that the rest of us civilians are just plane dumb. And that just came off as disrespectful to the rest of us . but from the bottom of my heart god bless those who served
At 1:25 you say if you zero at 25 yards you'll be hitting 1.5 inches low at 25 yards, or that's how I understood it at least. If you zero at 25 yards, Point of Aim should be the same as Point of Impact at 25 yards, otherwise you're not zeroed for that..?
is it true that if i shoot from 25 yards and desire a 50 yard zero,i can dial in at 25 and impact is 1'' low? would this still be a 50 yard zero?i ask because i feel i can be much more precise at that distance but desire the 50 yard zero
Airborne…
508 ABN ‘93-95; 2/505 PIR ‘96-00
Leg… I see what you did there. 😉
what about if your using the acss reticle?
What do you recommend for house clearing or should I ask, anything less than 25 yards?
Or for an indoor rifle that will NEVER shoot past 25 yards.
1/75 RLTW
We switched to 50/200 yard zero due most engagements were within these ranges.
I agree with you 100 percent. You make a very rational and logical argument. I had previously set my rifle to achieve a 50/200 yards zero using a calculated 1.9 inch difference between POA and POI at at 10 yards. Please take into consideration that most shooters don’t have access to an outside rifle range, but have easy access to an indoor range with a max distance of 25 yards. I got tired of telling those that were shooting with me to aim higher using a red dot in order to hit the bulls eye. Zeroing at 25 yds, I move the target all the way to the end of indoor range (25 yds), and tell them to aim for the center. 😀
Do you us the same zero for both M4's w/14.5/16" bbl and AR15A2/A4's w/20" bbl? I zero all our M4's at 50 yds. I just put together a AR15A4 and I'm not sure where to zero it. I'll be shooting it with iron sights (carry handle and FSP).
Cousin Ernie, are u wearing a dicky? Lol
what about the 36 yrd zero
AATW
Kotaboy32. Been a subscriber for a while now, im a former marine leo and weapons instructor, with that said. I enjoy and learn a lot from your vids, keep posting and semper fi
50/200 is what I use on my DPMS 300 blackout! 300 yard for my 308, and 800 for my 7mm rem mag!
I'm guessing this is for a 16 inch barrel? How about a 10.5 inch barrel? Which zero distance will work the best out to 200 yards and if I stretch to 300 yards? Thanks
Turn up your volume please
what about zeroing at 75 yards
Thanks! I will try that
Airborne.
just did a ten yard zero with my Ruger 556 and worked great, turns in to a 50/200 zero. used a laser bore sight in my house. zeroed with out firing a shot. it was hitting about a 1MOA at 50 yards. great to get on paper with very little adjustment. 1 moa at the range of course. lol
It's 36yard/300meter(we eat crayons shut up) with 16 inch barrels 1:7 twist m855 (62 grains) for us devil dogs. Least when I was in.