Here at Tactical Rifleman, we wanted a YouTube Channel where operators and civilians could go to get information on how to “Shoot, Move, and Communicate.” So, this week, we are going back to our core basics and we are going to talk about how to zero Iron Sights on a typical rifle; AK, AR, FAL, it really doesn’t matter, as the principles remain the same. I thought everyone knew how to zero Iron Sights, but we have had multiple viewers ask for help; so here we are… ask and you shall receive.
Whenever you are zeroing your sight, irons or optics, always try to ensure you have a stable firing position. That includes proper body position, sight alignment, and a good natural point of aim. Once you have properly mounted your Iron Sights, whether they are built on or “Back Up,”, they should be fairly close right out of the box (on paper at 25 meters).
Whether you zero at 25, 50, or 100 meters; I don’t care. There are pros and cons of each, and we actually cover them in a different video (25 vs 50 meter Zeros). For this video we used 50 meters.
Use a good zero target. You can download them for free all over the internet or design your own. Just make sure they print to scale. I like to use bright orange pasties, but for this video we used the standard military zero target. No matter what target you use, ensure it has a small highly-visible center. This will give you a small point of aim.
We like to zero with 3-5 round groups. I actually prefer 5 round groups, as I’ll cover in a later video, but that would have added 5 more seconds to an already long YouTube video. Seriously… that’s what I get told by the film crew.
What kills people, when shooting Iron Sights, is that they don’t focus on sight alignment. Those sight have got to be perfectly lined up. For easy math, let’s say your rifle sights are 2 feet apart. If your sights are not lined up, say a quarter of an inch out of alignment; that doubles every 2 feet. Quarter becomes a half, a half becomes an inch and then then thing you know, you are missing by 6 inches at 100 meters.
Adjustments (clicks) will depend on the distance that you are shooting at, and the type sights you are using. If you are not sure; look it up in the manual that came with the sights, or Google it on the web. Still can’t find it?… Make bold corrections of 10 clicks, and then measure how far 10 clicks moved you… divide by 10, and you now have the value of each click.
Make your adjustments and repeat. Again, fire another group, mark target, and adjust the Iron Sights as needed. Too Easy.
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On any rifle, you have the line of sight and the path of the bullet. They cross twice. By going to short range, around 25 yards and adjusting your sights, that would be the first time line of sight and bullet path cross. Because your rifle bore is below your sight, the bullet path goes above line of sight after they cross at 25 yards if sighted at that range initially. They cross again as bullet path drops at roughly 200 or 300 hundred yards depending on bullet weight and velocity. I always make rifle sight adjustments at the pistol range to get initial sight adjustment, then shoot at the 100 or 200 yard for final adjustments. It can save you headaches in sighting in you rifle. This can be done with any kind of rifle, bolt action or semi and open sights or rifle scope.
I went to Marine Corps Bootcamp in 1979. We had the M-16A1, which you adjusted windage with the rear sight and elevation with front sight. We used to bring rifle to mechanical zero, then took rifle to BZO range, which was roughly 25 yards. Shot a group, and adjusted till you hit a quarter sized target. That was your battle sight zero. You got your final adjustments (dope) while on the 200, 300 and 500 yard range, and everything was logged in your data book.
That mannequin looks realistic!
My 12 yr old brain saw shot group 1 different
Your good at explaining shit, thanks for the vids!
Great Video!
What is the aim point?
Where can i get that paper can i print it out online
Man this was very a elaborate explanation. You should do one showing how to zero i reflex dot at 25 or 50yds
I'm a gunsmith and I suggest that if you own a gun you should buy a laser bore sighter for that caliber. The kind that is shaped like the cartridge and fits in the chamber. I run an optic on my flat top ARs (I have 3 set up for different uses, but all will work from CQB to extended ranges of 500+yards. I keep my calibers for self defense guns pretty basic (9mm, 45acp, 5.56mm,5.45×39, 7.62×39, 308 and 12 gauge). I have a laser for each pistol and rifle caliber. I can easily go out in the dark and adjust my red dots, scopes and back up iron sights with the laser. It gets me well with in an inch of dead zero. With my ARs I build them to be completely railed (no a2 front sight) I run a red dot or an optic on top and I use 45 degree back up irons. With the laser on and in the chamber I can quickly zero the top mounted optic or red dot and with a slight twist of the gun I adjust my back up iron. I prefer the more rigid metal non-flip up 45 degree irons as they tend to hold zero better. I then take the ammo I use to final zero the guns. I always use the same brand of ammo so I don't have an ammo induced poi shift. I'm also a big fan of nikon's caliber specific BDC reticle so I can use their free ballistic calculator which tells me which hash mark to use for hold over. I have memorized most hold overs but a good laser range finder is almost a must have to know the exact distance for fine shots. Laser bore sights are a great option to get you really close with out having to waste ammo getting close to zero first. They pay for themselves pretty quick, especially when shooting match grade 308. Just some advice that may help some people. They also come in handy to make sure your sights or optic are still zeroed if you bump the red dot or scope.
So after you zeroed it, the rear elevation you bring it back to 6/3 or keep on z?
It's not how I sought on in but it is another choice and good to know
If your nose is not on the charging handle, you are wrong.
That's all we had in the early 90s.
And we shined our boots. Hehe
Takes me back to Edson Range. Outstanding!
Thank you sir, I ordered a chevron sight post for my AR and brownells gave me bad information. Glad I found this video.
I don't own a gun but this was still very informative and even as someone with zero experience in this area, I believe I would be able to instruct someone how to zero his rifle. Very nice job on this video.
He's wrong. The small sight was designed to create a parallax free sight. Meaning when your looking through the sight, you can move you head around while keeping your eye looking through it and the front sight post will stay dead on to your point of aim. Exactly the way a red dot optic works. By knowing this you can get on target faster easier as well as quick follow up shots without thinking you have to have it perfectly centered. When looking through the small sight, ignore it and only focus on the front. Wherever you put that front sight is going to be you impact location(considering the fact it's already zeroed), regardless if your front sight is at the top, bottom, left or right, while looking through the rear sight.
I'm shocked that he has no clue about this considering his background and credits himself enough to train others.
Thanks, I've been shooting pistols my entire life and never gave rifles a shot (pun intended), one of my friends said he'd let me borrow a few rifles to see what I like then I'll make a purchase. I really appreciate what you do, you explain things in a way that's easy to understand. You earned a sub!
Thanks for the info. Clear instructions. Keep up the good work.
I am learning this for my airsoft replica M4
Why when Karl circles that first three shot group does it look like a a dick with a set of balls? What is really going on here?? 😂 thank all of you guys over at Tactical Rifleman for all the awesome videos. Keep shooting them 3 shot dick groups.
You'll get much better sight alignment and consistancy if the tip of the nose is slightly touching the charging handle.