Not happy with this lower parts kit

My last build I purchased the Plametto state armory LPK. I dont like the kit at all. I have built several ARs. I have never had the problems installing the kits like I did with the PSA LPK. I had issues installing the trigger pins and I also have the same issue the the safety. Maybe I am the other 1 in 10,000.

Not too bright are you. You can lessen the pull weight by bending springs. Now I'VE done it, you will overdo it like every monkey with a new trick.

Buy quality parts-problem solved

Yep,you got a bad one.
I did my PSA lower parts kit build with the EPT fire control group with one exception,I installed a set of JP Enterprises lightweight trigger and hammer springs. Still got that long creep before the break. I still want to get a better fire control group.:)

stop bitching and upgrade everybody has to go through the same thing especially with a PSA they're not a top grade producer mediocre-at-best

My PSA lower parts kit seems OK. It does have the line or seam across the selector switch, doesn't bother me though. Mines just a basic AR nothing fancy. But it shoots good.

For what its worth bro, I have found the Anderson lowers are out of spec. May be the lower?…

My PSA selector switch was tight as hell after the initial build. However, after working it many times, it now is smooth as silk. I think the detent and the selector need to work in. I know you are a perfectionist but my selector goes safe when I select it and it fires when I select fire. The lower may have something to do with perfect alignment and my Spikes seems to be just perfect. 1000 rounds now without any malfunctions which surprises me. I was expecting a break in period. I have no line on my selector and it seems to align. With all the offerings PSA has, I can't say I got what you did. My shoulder stock is different but I think I have the same trigger. After working it, I love mine.

I have a complete PSA rifle. The lower parts kit seems to be good quality. The trigger was ok, but I put the ALG ACT trigger in it, and I like it a lot. I got the milspec button rifled barrel that is also an FN barrel. It's pretty accurate and haven't had any issues.

The safety is the same on my lower parts kit.

I just built my AR with a Spikes Tactical stripped lower and the rest from PSA. I couldn't be happier. 500 rounds and still no malfunctions. I was expecting some break in issues but this thing runs like butter.

you can tell its mattel OLOLOLOL and def that selector was made by elliot's HAWG OLOLOL

I just got a PSA complete lower. this one the safety is also weird. it has a click and positive stop between fire and safe. the detent and spring are installed correctly. I have to agree with you brother.my other AR's don't do this.

i had an off center safety, turned out to be the lower and not the lever. As for lower parts kits i have CMMG without fire control group in a few guns. however these days i use after market enhanced parts for a lot of things. strike industries enhanced mag catch, battle arms development ambi safety, strike industries strike switch safety. i still use a stock bolt catch because i like using a bad lever.

Got that psa upper and bcg. But went with RRA lower.

Good stuff to know.

Best LPK's are Spike's Tactical, CCMG, BCM or Daniel Defense. You'll pay a bit more, however, you'll get proper specifications with all the parts. I only use the aforementioned LPK's. In the firearm industry, you get what you pay for.

Great info my friend.

H4T…machine gun steel is just a marketing scheme. It's a milspec barrel which is 4150 steel with CMV added…which is at the requirement of the Military. Which now, all manufactures are using. Some companies probably still use 4140 steel. Here is some info on barrels. All 41xx steel is Chrome Moly. Whereas, 4150 apparently has Chrome Moly, as well as Vandium is added from a bit more strength. When you compare 4140 to 4150 steel just means 1/10th of 1% more carbon is added, Before, people wanting 4150, most barrel makers used 4140, which all AK's use. 4140 is pressure tested to 100k psi and 4150 is 110K psi. That is what the 1/10th of 1% carbon gets you. No AR will ever put pressures past 70k psi. Hence, a 4140 is more then enough. Just customer bitch and what the better barrel. All FN does to rate their barrels machine grade, is the Chrome Lining is twice as thick. Which more than likely will not be used, since the US Military is in the final stages of testing Salt Bath Nitride barrel/bore treatment. Chrome lining is a plating. Whereas, Nitride is a treatment more so than a plating per se. The Nitride treatment has a Rockwell Hardness testing between 68 to 72 (which is extremely Hard). As well as, the Nitride treatment also goes anywhere from .003"-.005" (an inch), into the "Substrate " (outer most layering of the metal) of the metal. As for Nickel Boron (NiB), it has a Rockwell Hardness of 72-76. Reason, NiB is not used in Bores, is due to it's so slick and hard, that it actually Defeats the rifling, which degradation occurs to bullet spin. Therefore affecting a bullets stabilization and velocity. I know what I'm talking about. My family has been in firearm manufacturing industry for 3 generations now. Though I.m not employed at the family business. I grew around this and worked at the company on and off, while at school. Firearm manufacturing is a cool business and I cam close to working there full time, when I graduated from college. However, my true passion is science and medicine…hence, I'm a physician (surgeon). Everything I mentioned above is verifiable online. Go to http://www.rifleshooting.com, which is a good source on rifle metals, etc. Hope this helps you and others out. Oh BTW, Nitride goes on "CLEAR" so if you have a Nitride BCG or other parts showing the black coming off. It's not the Nitride treatment. Manufactures will Black Oxide or PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition) over the Nitride. So it doesn't appear as if your metal is bare. Most companies stick with Black Oxide, since it's cheap and fast. Whereas, PVD is an extremely durable coating. Which PVD is used a lot in race car engines, jets, Aerospace, etc. on parts where metal will have wear points (metal on metal) but a durable coating is a must to prevent corrosion from occurring. CZ and FN use PVD on their new Pistol lines. I know the new CZ, P10c and FNS use Nitride and then a PVD over the nitride process. PVD is not used much on rifles, due to anodizing and aluminum is used. PVD works best on Steel and well on stainless steel. Stainless is not always to work with. It's extremely difficult to Case Color Hardening on Stainless. Therefore, you don't see it much. Though stainless steel barrels will result in a more accurate barrel inherently. Stainless heats up much faster and doesn't make a good barrel for sustain use. Whereas, a Carbon barrel won't heat up nearly as fast, retaining it's accuracy during sustain fire. Sorry for the long comment. Just thought I would pass along some info, I NEVER see any of the popular channels mentioning. Either due to being ignorant or finding their viewers won't find it interesting or carry about these things. Respectfully, Dr. Rick.

Well I've used PSA ,CMMG ,Spikes and a couple of other kits . All but one I believe are the standard milspec kits . I guess I've been Lucky in all my builds . Just for myself I jsut checked all my AR rifles and AR pistols including the blemed Pistol complete lower my last purchase from PSA and I'm happy to say no problems here . They may have changed venders on some of their lower parts . Sorry to hear about your experence , Gerry .

Good to know, thanks

I had that issue but it was only with the Anderson lower. I stuck it in another lower and it was fine

Thanks for the info.

I've always wondered if the Palmetto State Armory is based out of SC….The Palmetto State.

I have a PSA mil-spec trigger in my Aero Precision lower and it feels just like a standard trigger pull like on my Colt 6920. Not the best out their buy any means but its what I'm used too and good enough. I did however I had to buy a second mag catch from Aero Precision because the PSA one would get caught and hang up on the long side and wouldn't function so there is that.

Maybe you   could send this video to palmetto state armory or call them and see if it's defective or return it for credit on a different one.

lol I've watched your channel for a long time, but this is just silly.
you're nitpicking a budget milspec build.. what do you expect?

does it work? yes. it's better than half the shit out there, and definitely better than overpaying for the other half of the crap out there. lol

I know what you meen on the safety my m&p sport 2 has a very positive safety.

I built awesome ARs the last one I used a expensive lower parts kit unknown name to me. It was the only one at gun store didn't wanna order and wait. Boy it sucked! It will be my trade lower if SHTF collapse lol. First lower I hate but then again I haven't fired it yet. It just doesn't function right. Feels cheap, and did not fit correctly.

i have a PSA magpul complete lower also, the feel and smoothness isn't the best, but I like the lower as a whole. The price was spot on so I wouldn't expect it to feel crisp all around like some of the more expensive options. The safety switch feels pretty uncraftsman-like, but that's all I noticed, the trigger feels ok, no complaints there. I've heard good things about PSA and in my limited experience with them I would say I would buy there again.

I've done budget stuff in the past and I'm totally over it.

I paired down and sold all my meh ARs and now own a single, top tier, high dollar, quality factory built rifle, outfitted with top tier accessories, and couldn't be any happier.

For the price of two decent lowers like what you have here, you could have bought a really nice fully assembled lower that you know is totally good to go.