Everyone asks where I find AR-15 stuff in stock or where I order from, so here you are:
I show how I install a barrel into an AR-15 upper receiver. Specifically, in this video, I am installing a barrel using the barrel nut for my Geissele Mk3 rail. This barrel nut is unique to this rail and requires no indexing for the gas tube.
Geissele Reaction Rod:
AreoShell 33MS Grease:
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Holy greasy butthole batman!
Enough grease to lube a moose!
Got a question for you regarding the grease amount, on my build i put about the same amount of aeroshell 33ms on my castle nut and receiver extension (which they changed the name to aeroshell 64, because people were getting confused, if u didnt already know) , and grease/lube has been creeping out from between it, not the grey good stuff, just a visible coating of oiliness, do you have that same thing happening around your barrel nut/barrel/upper receiver? im trying to find a good reason why i should stop huffing this stuff everytime i shoulder my rifle, im worried i might get addicted. Thanks. -D
Good lord that’s way too much grease.
Went FULL RETARD on the amount of anti seize
High quality parts huh…something is out of spec if you have to beat that hard to install a barrel..high quality lmao
Forgot to say with the half tube of grease you used that barrel should have slipped in with no prob what so ever.
Cool
what lubrication can I use for the trigger and barrel your link doesn't work anymore
Love it awesome
If you ever have a barrel that tight again, throw it in the freezer for a hour or so before fitting. It helps.
Too much grease.
I would do that but i cant even get barrel nut off
Your torq wrench was definitely set to 30 ft/lb not 40
Would high temp lithium grease work on the threads? Wal-Mart has that stuff.
Damn bro remove some grease? Haha more like wipe all that shit off and what's left is what you should use
I would heat the upper receiver it gets hot when you're shooting anyway let it cool down then apply Grease barrel nut I do however light coat of grease on
Barrel extension
You got stock in Shell huh? tiny dab will do…
wonder if it is necessary to tighten and losen 3 times before doing final torque when you are putting a new barrel into a old receiver? also did you have your wrench coming straight off the torque tool or 90 degrees? i think i have watched about 200 vids on the ''proper'' way to use the torque wrench with the tool and seen 300 different opinions.
I'm glad you used enough grease for both of us because I forgot! But seriously I didn't know grease on barrel threads was a thing
Holy grease.
Amazes me that people assume things with no clearance are better made parts, what is going to happen when those different masses of metal heat and cool at different rates?
I appreciate you taking the time to do these videos. You have helped me a lot as I am doing my 1st build. Subscribed also 🖒
when he put the grease on i laughed hard enough that a little tiny bit of poop came out my butt
I have a fever! And the only prescription is more aeroshell!
How's the accuracy of the Rainier Arms barrel? I've heard they're pretty accurate and the fit is obviously good and tight.
from an engineer's stand point, the amount and type of grease are very important. but I'll mention only an example that correlates with a firearm system.In an AR15, the reason you should apply grease on the inside diameter of the end barrel and the upper receiver is to avoid corrosion from dissimilar metals, also known as cold welding. the barrel being any variant of steel and the upper being aluminum(same is true for the barrel nut and threads). A secondary benefit is the ease of removal later on how ever, now the type of grease will become relevant, you want a grease that holds its lubricity, consistency/viscosity and not cook or dry under the extreme temperature fluctuations the barrel creates at the lubricating point, you also do not want lubrication to liquify and enter the detonating chamber or run off along the barrel, and any internal excessive grease will also expand like any other material on earth when put under heat so having excessive grease will cause extreme pressures while it attempts to expand where it isn't supposed to which may cause deformation, cracks or an explosion.
Simply put, you only need a dab of your favorite anti-seize on the threads and a smear a small dab along the inside of the upper where you would slide the barrel in, you should feel it, not really see it. and as mention previously, lubrication on threads will greatly alter the required torque, in other words you applied more torque than your indicated 40FT lbs BUT its no where close to the top end limit of your torque window, which is around 90 ftlbs
I agree with something being out of spec, that barrel extension should have slid on with little effort. You should NEVER have to pound a receiver onto the barrel, how will you ever get it back off? I bought a receiver honing bar a while back. It trues both the receiver well and the barrel nut threads and smooths out the extension hole, making everything concentric to the bore. I've seen videos of some threads off by up to 30°, canting the barrel. The hone will square up the threads and hone the receiver at the same time (a little goes a long way!). I like the Geissele barrel nut and action tool.
Too much grease. That caused the too tight fit / need for mallet, which was a bad idea.
Hey, You missed a spot with the grease bath!!!!!
FYI- the proper way to use the tq wrench is to have it 90 degrees to the barrel nut tool only then will it be a true tq measurement.
Great Gobs of Grease! Great video man
great video . just wondering for my build I used aeroshell but only torqued to 30 once and my wrench broke Chinese armours wrench lol should I be worried about anything or should that be alright for it not backing out
Put your barrel in the freezer if it's a tight fit.Then it will side in easy.
im building an ar15 in 7.62×39, can i just use the normal barrel nut wrench?
How about using anti seize on threads
how has the Ranier barrel been?
jesus thats alot of goober
i don't think you need that much goo…
WAYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY too much grease… It's not a wheel bearing…
Torquing the way you did is over torquing! You don't want the tool longer than the torque wrench, should have been parallel to the 1/2 drive on the torque wrench.
So apparently I've been saying Geissele wrong.
Do you need a reaction rod?
Should barrel nuts make contact with the upper receiver?
Have you noticed any deformation of the upper index pin slot? All the torque goes on that little pin.