Midwest Industries AR15 Lightweight 15″ free float handguard Review & Install

Snap-On Tools, someone's got coin.

Good little video guys!

Would this fit a DPMS Oracle 5.56 NATO?

I know this is a really ignorant question. I have an ar-15 with a free float hand guard on it already, but I want to put on a 15 inch hand guard instead of the 7 inch hand guard that it currently has. Do I still have to remove the barrel nut if I just want to replace it?

To get a correct torque value, you us set your torque adapter to exactly 90 degrees. He is using his torque wrench incorrectly in this video.

Good Video, However keep in mind when doing a tutorial video the little details matter. Your torque wrench should be positioned 90% from the torque adapter/barrel nut tool. Yours is positioned almost straight out when applying torque to the barrel nut. This is referred to as non concentric. You are effectively lengthening the lever (torque wrench) applying more work (torque) than is indicated on the wrench. A barrel nut has a large forgiving range but that becomes more relevant on more precise torque values.

take it to a gunsmith, if you are doing this for the first time you will be paying more for tools and time in the long run.

Grow up son and learn to communicate respectfully and intelligently like a real man.
"Profanity proves neither toughness nor intelligence, only a lack of self-control, morals, maturity, language skills and character." BLD

what did you use to slide the ar into in your vice? I like that alot more than my clamp!

If I have a carbine gas-tube and rail and I want to change it to a 15 inch Midwest m-lock. Would you guys recommend changing the tube to a mid-gas tube?

You sir have just won a new subscriber 😊

Awesome so cool

If you have a 30ft lb window for the barrel nut then why are you setting it for distinct numbers and not just staying in the ft lb window and getting clearance for the gas tube??

wow you pay 160$ and its packed in a simple scissor plasic pack

The barrel nut is actually being torqued to a higher value than the wrench indicates in all but the final application of torque. This is a somewhat tricky and definitely little known detail of torque wrench use. To understand, one must understand what torque is. Torque is the rotational force caused by a linear force applied at a distance from the center of rotation. The torque wrench measures the rotational force (torque) created by the linear (straight line) force of your hand on the tool handle applied at an orthogonal distance from the center of rotation (the wrench head). It is very important to hold the tool correctly and only apply force to the handle, and only at a 90 degree angle to the wrench bar itself in the direction that will cause the nut to tighten.

When an extra tool is added, as in this case, the preferred method is to keep the wrench at a 90 degree angle to the tool, if possible, in order for the torque wrench value to equal the toque applied to the nut. If one holds the wrench perfectly in line with the special tool the force of one's hand will be applied at a longer distance from the center of the nut. But the wrench is reading torque at the end of the wrench, not at the nut, so the nut will be receiving a higher torque than the wrench is indicating. The formula for this increase is T = F x (L1 + L2), where T=Torque, F=the hand force, L1=length of torque wrench, and L2=length of special tool. After a little algebra the formula, in terms of just torque and length, is: Tnut = Twrench x (L1+L2)/L1). Assuming the wrench is 16" long and the tool 4" long, the torque at the nut for a 30 fl-lb wrench torque would be 37.5 ft=lbs, a 25% increase. That's substantial. One would be over torqueing the nut by 25% of what they thought they were applying if the tool in in-line with the wrench.

It is perfectly acceptable to use the tool in-line like that—as long as the increased length is accounted for. To do that the formula is changed around to be Tnut = (Twrench x L1)/(L1+L2). Using the above example, the wrench would be set at 24 fl-lbs to give a true torque of 30 ft-lbs on the nut.

As the angle between the tool and the torque wrench increases from 0 degrees (in line) to 90 degrees (as the final torque in the video shows—the wrench and the tool make a 90 degree angle, or "L" shape), the wrench torque needs to increase steadily until it is equal to the nut torque at 90 degrees. The angular relationship is actually a sine function, so I won't get into those details here. Besides, the in-line method and the 90 degree method are the most practical in use.One must remember that the torque limits set by a manufacturer, as in this case the 30-50 ft-lb for the barrel nut torque, are to be applied to the true torque applied by the wrench and the extended tool.

As you can see, if you are torquing something to the higher values in its acceptable torque range, the proper use of the formula, or keeping the tool extension and the torque wrench at a 90 degree angle, will keep you from possibly over torqueing the nut/bolt and possibly breaking it or stripping the threads off an expensive part.

May the force be with you! Pun intended.

I didn't catch what the barrel length was?

It amazes me how many people do not know how to use a torque wrench with an adapter. You have to be 90 degrees to the extension to get the correct reading on your torque wrench. You guys explained everything well enough but who knows what your barrel is torqued at ? Nice rail and I liked the bar you used for holding the upper, very nice.

I have also experienced a lot of This rail sliding off of my barrel nut. It doesn't matter how tight You make the bolts, the knurling on the barrel nut does not grip The handguard at all. The system is completely reliant On the Adhesive to hold it in place and when thinking about the amount of heat and Cold And vibration that goes through this thing I am not willing to rely on GLUE to hold my rifle together. Mainly because I plan on actually using my rifle outdoors where there is RAIN and stuff.I have long term Experience Shooting and using AR's and the 1st day I took My rifle out to sight in and shoot This Handguard started sliding off my gun within 2 hours! And from then on, it would keep sliding off every time I fired 3 rounds or more.I'm not kidding. I was very excited when I got this product and how light it is and the barrel nut That comes with it. And this was the biggest surprise, I've ever had involving guns anywhere.

Your torquing technique needs much improvement. Keep the crows foot attachment on the torque tool 90 degrees (perpendicular) from the top. If it's closer to the top you're applying more torque than indicated, and if it's closer to the handle you're under torquing it. Keep your hand in the center of the handle and always pull towards you, not below you or away from you. Keep your thumb wrapped around the handle, do not extend it out to assist in applying pressure as you will also alter the torque value. Yes, I know, it's just a barrel nut but working on bombs for 20 years you appreciate doing the job right the first time before something really bad tells you otherwise.

I installed the same MI M-LOK handguard for my 308, but it keeps sliding off the barrel nut every time I fired it. I even put a blue loctite around the barrel nut and the two set screws and the handguard still slides off when I fire the rifle.

what length gas system?

First I got my upper from Blitzkrieg Tactical with barrel barrel nut gas block & tube Assembled But my barrel nut is facing backward from this video. So does a different barrel nut come with the forearm?
2nd Does it Rest on the low profile gas block & Last I take it it comes from Midwest Industries for $180. to $200. bucks,,,
I Eagerly await your reply

How much is this

What gas block did you use. I ordered this hand rail but I don't think it will fit around the gas block I ordered

Thanks guys this vid helped me out a ton! I appreciate your time spent making it!

Is there a link to where one can buy these parts used in this video?