Home AR-15 Very Important AR-15 Parts

Very Important AR-15 Parts

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46 COMMENTS

  1. Awesome video!! You have given us some great examples of what can go very wrong. As always, you have to keep your best head on your shoulders So you can go home at the end of a shoot instead of going to the hospital! Thanks for keeping it real & have a great week Brother!!

  2. I used to double charge rounds all the time in my Ruger 10/22 right in the field. Take out the bullet and pour in another. It definitely hit harder, though now I understand the primer can't simultaneously ignite the grains when they're packed, so it may not have been a full double boost.

  3. Both my rifles have anderson stripped lowers. The holes are in spec, and really they very little bearing on performance or durability, so I don't see the point in buying lowers for many hundreds of dollars. Also, in my experience anderson lowers are so snug when paired with aero uppers. Not rattle at all.

  4. i could not agree with you more. i get so sick of people making fun of 'econo' ars. every gun guys should be glad to see people build/guy more guns as it strengthens our 2a right.

  5. I am a complete layman when it comes to this aspect of bolts, but supposedly high pressure testing causes more harm than good when you have a good bolt manufacturing process and unnecessarily reduces bolt life substantially. If I recall correctly, Knight's Armament doesn't HP test for this reason. It could be an excuse to save money, but I somehow doubt it in their case.

    Lots of people use lube or even grease on buffer springs (to reduce the sproing sound). I used to use automotive grease on my buffer spring years ago to get rid of the sproing and fired probably close to 10,000 rounds without issue. I use Geissele Super 42 springs these days to cure the sproing but I still lightly lube them. I could be mistaken, but I believe most manufacturers recommend that you lightly lube the buffer spring regardless though.

  6. I see a lot of guys using tge Radian selectors. I haven't tried one , but if they're as good as their charging handles, I'm sure they're the tits. I have the Battle Arms selectors on 2 of my AR's and I love them. The detents are really nice, and are buttery smooth but positive when operated. I also can't recommend Battle Arms takedown/pivot pins enough. The front one includes a magnet that holds the detent and spring in place while you install the pin. Also the pins protrude slightly on the left side for easy actuation. They're pretty expensive, but its worth it to avoid sending small parts across the room and losing them imo. Those and a good charging handle are the only Gucci parts I indulge myself with lol.

  7. Great video tons of valuable info, thanks. Bought my first and so far only AR this year, a PWS M116 MODII, absolutely love it. You can definitely notice the quality when comparing it to some other examples.

  8. Not a big problrm actually. You can find quality parts on sale at discount sellers. May I suggest you consider a DPMS Upper the style without the Forward Assist or dust cover or both. The alloy is very thick and substancial. A clamp style handguard is easiest to build and some have bosses to align them with the upper. Plus they don't have to be indexted. If you have a handguard that needs indexted you usually have to torque it at least twice to align the rails on the receiver and handguard. And sometimes you will get one without shims included. And I know there is a range of torque for the barrel nut but don't be tempted to align it with overtorque or undertorque. basucally the insert on the end of the barrel is held rotationally by the pin that indexes it to the receiver and you can shear that pin. Your bcg won't go in battery and you won't be able to remove the barrel nut because it will rotate in the upper. And the best tool to use for assembly an upper is the type that insert through the receiver into the insert. The two piece plastic can slip and doesn't fit the DPMS type upper. The worst is the one that uses the holes for the takedown pins. They can and do distort the holes for the upper introducing slop before you even assemble it. Yes and do use the proper tool and a torque wrench. compensating for the offset on the wrench or crows foot. On the other style handguard most common is the one mounted with 6 set screws. Try to thread them all before tightening any. Finally on the buffer tube screw it in only as far to contact the locating pin as too far and it may not cycle. It is definately too far if the back won't close. So I would also not allow it to turn when tightening the buffer tube not becsuse it will then keep that pin from moving.

  9. I would never bash a man for exercising his god-given 2A rights and trying to be a protector of his community and his family. some people can't afford Glocks especially these days trying to raise a family and provide. so I will not bash a man if he has a high point. All i care about is the character of that man and how he commits his self to the cause. If you bash a man because he can't afford a Daniel defense and has a PSA or an Anderson you should be ashamed of yourself. They just trying to work with what they have and there is no problem with that in my opinion. People fall on hard times especially these days . We are Americans and should be supporting those who stand for freedom no matter if they have a Glock or a high point. Got three types of people in this world you got the sheep the wolves and the sheepdog. Which one you going to be cuz 10 times out of 10 I'm going with the sheepdog. Don't let a wishbone grow where your spine should be ladies and gentlemen. 🇺🇸🦅🗽📜🐍🪖💥 .

  10. I would say instead of the wedge for receiver slop you could also check out the JP enterprises oversized takedown pins. Worked great in my rifle that had a lot of slop in it. But they are more expensive then the wedge.

  11. Great video. I do agree with you but you said a double charge. No way can a 223/5.56 case hold a double charge. A compressed charge , yes. But no way for a double charge. Now a pistol case most definitely . I am amazed that whoever had 20 squibs in that barrel and wasn't able to notice and not get hurt , now that's wild. Glad no one got hurt.

  12. My build money went to: Ballistic Advantage .223 wylde barrel, American Defense BCG, BCM upper reciever, Machine Tool hand guard, Magpul stock & grip. Saved money where I could: Strike Industries lower parts kit with trigger/hammer, expo arms buffer kit and yes, an Anderson lower.

  13. Good advice Mike!
    When I was looking for a new AR rifle afew years ago, I had a checklist with most of the characteristics you mentioned. The POF-USA P415 Edge is what I finally chose and have been very satisfied (in fact bought an Edge pistol later).

  14. I looked at your build list and can’t find any info on that red shim you mentioned for reducing wobble between the uppers and lowers. Can you tell me who makes them and where I might find them? Thanks.

  15. IMO the LaRue MBT2S is the best trigger for under $100. Or the best I've experienced anyway. For a grip I always seem to go back to an Ergo Surfire grip. It's the CZ75 of AR grips IMO. I used to buy Tango Down grips, but I've switched to the Ergo for most of my builds. For the price I think ALG makes pretty good handguards. I prefer them to their triggers anyway.

    Great video BTW, but I'm a little surprised that you didn't mention optics. Also what's your option about running a drop-in handguard as opposed to free floating? I feel the free floating handguards are cool, and have some advantages, but for the cost I've never found a drop-in handguard to be a hindrance. Obviously a free floated handguard gives you more options and real estate.

  16. Thank you! Yet another amazing video. You are one of the few experts, who I follow all the time. I know this question will be like “it depends” but let me ask it anyway: What is your perspective between 5.56 and 7.62? And for 7.62 aka .308, what do you think between DI vs piston driven ones?

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