AR-15 Buffer Weight Discussion

Your red dot is too far back.

I run H3 buffers in all my 10.5 inch pistols and my middys with no problems ever even using cheap 223

I know this video is like 3 yrs old. But what song is that in the ending?

Soo I have a standard carbine buffer which cycles hot 5.56 no problem and ejects casings at about 3 o'clock/ 3:30. Would you recommend still trying a heavier buffer or am I g2g?

Very helpful, I have a PSA 16" midlength and the recoil is very bad, just bought an H2 buffer and a Sprinco blue spring to see how much it can be improved.

Damn this guy looks like Lonzo Ball

Most civilian rifles work best with heavier buffers. I'm running a H2, and getting ejections at or about 3 to 3:30.
With the 3 oz the weapon is ejecting the spent casings at about 2 o'clock

Ar pistol with buttstock?

Hi, I have a question. My AR is failing to eject the cartridge. I've ruled out the magazine… I think its the buffer or spring??? It's a 18in 223 wylde barrel with a standard carbine lower. All from PSA… I use tula 223 ammo… Which I heard that could be weak. Also when I pull the charging handle it just seems hard to pull back all the time like the spring is too stiff… What do you think? Thanks!

Just buy tungsten weights off Amazon and work around with it and find that 3:30 ejection

I run spikes tactical flat wire springs or sprinco springs. You want your shells to eject at 3:30–4:00 o'clock.👌

Are you shooting the same ammo in both videos showing the shells kick out different ?

It looks like you did but idk why anyone would do a tax stamp for an sbr unless they suppressed it or made it full auto

I also noticed I'm a lot more accurate in full auto fire using a H2 buffer.

New to the AR15. Watched a ton of videos good and bad. Been researching on how to improve my recoil. My guns recoil is pretty harsh and casings were ejecting at 2 o clock too. Your video helped me identify EXACTLY what I need for my rifle. Gotta H1 (4oz) buffer and a Sprinco “Blue” enhanced buffer spring. Carbine buffer and spring were too weak and light for my mid length barrel. Great video👍

BCM 14.5 Mid-length gas. Known to NOT be over-gassed. H2 buffer and runs like a dream. PMC .223 runs fine.

Is it possible to have failure to eject/ rim tearing in an ar pistol due to over gassing?

Whoa thought I was watching Bay Area Bugs for a sec.

A trick you can do is purchase a lightweight carbine buffer and a single H3 buffer and interchange the weights to your heart's content. Prevents purchasing more than you have to.
From what I've gathered, but I'm still uncertain: anywhere from 3 o'clock to 5 o'clock is a good ejection window for optimal gas. I am unsure how much you could adjust with an adjustable gas block, or if you'd want to tone your gas down too far for fear of causing other possible issues. I don't have an adjustable block, and no experience with one.

I've had really good experience so far with my 16" mid-length gas barrel and a standard carbine weight so far. I've only noted issues with steel cased .223 short stroking and only failing to lock open on empty.

Important note to add:
Makes sure whatever buffer you choose the bolt locks back to the rear after the last round, and chambers a round into battery efficiently

Im building an 18 inch barrel AR with low split times in mind. What should I go with

Building a 10.5 300bk using a Franklin armory binary trigger what buffer weight would you suggest.

Odd question: I shoot left-handed, so the 5 o'clock ejection angle sometimes burns me (casings landing on arm, shoulder, or even neck). Is it harmful to the rifle to have a lower weigh buffer to force the shells to eject at 1 or 2 o'clock (thereby avoid being burned)?

Geisselle with 10.5" 556 barrel recommends H3 with suppressor, H2 without.
BCM recommends H3 for supersonic 300blk ammo, carbine buffer for subsonic 300blk ammo.

Very helpful, I'm looking at buying an adjustable buffer kit to put one together for myself to try and improve on a rifle build of mine.

Most of the buffer issues are with full automatic mode and is why they went with heavier buffers. Apart from the gas tube the weight of the actual barrel plays a role too. Just adding more weight up front changes the dynamics, a heavy barrel meaning it weighs more requires a h2 buffer in automatic mode.

All of these were for machine guns not semi autos. For semi auto a standard h buffer will be the most reliable in all temperature conditions it will be more reliable with ammo in various conditions. If you life depends on it its the lighter buffer will be more reliable over a range of conditions. For plinking use what you want but its not a big deal as its just for semi not full auto, then use the heaviest buffer that will cycle.

The Buffer – Theory and when to Use What Buffer



He does a good job on giving the real history of why they even use H, H1, h2 etc buffers. It was not for civilians playing army at home it was for military and issues with firing 800 rounds per minute.

I'm lefty so casing ejecting to the front would be better for me, insteading of coming back to my face.

now im gonna pay attention to where the shells are going

I'm running a 20" upper on a standard carbine collapsible stock lower. If I run hot 5.56 ammo it will run great but won't run. 223. What buffer should I be using?

Best explanations on u tube. Great video

Did you keep the same spring with your new buffer?

Thank you for your clarity. Too often those who know speak in such a way that those who do not will not understand.

This video is 🗑

I run my red dots over or 1 notch forward, running them so close to your eye can cause tunnel vision, and you lose FOV out of your non optic eye. Larry Vickers has a video on why to run a red dot over your dust cover, I will link it https://youtu.be/zgO2UCTJ-Po

DD barrels in general are set up for max reliability with H buffers— that’s what DD ships in their full rifles. They will run h2 fine if you aren’t combining weak ammo with cold temps and a dirty gun.

No the bolt doesn't pick it up. The bullet isn't seated in the chamber because it's either jammed at an angle upright or nose dived. The first round ejects good. So it's a short stroke issue….I think?? I'm not a gunsmith, just a hunter. Lol!!

My first round ejects, my second round stove pipes. So I'm getting a failure to feed. Running a Palmetto State Armory, 300 blackout, subsonic, surpressed, 16" barrel. Stock buffer and buffer spring. Should I upgrade to h1 or h2 buffer??

Thanks

Im having the same issue im going to order a h2 buffer

Really good info man

Good video, a couple notes for all…A carbine with a short barrel does not have more dwell time, in fact it has less…..However, the gas system in a short barrel carbine is operating at a higher initial pressure. You're also running a linear compensator which is increasing your dwell time somewhat and acting somewhat like a longer barrel, so this is not a traditional flash hidden short barrel carbine which can act different. Of course this is all dependent on your gas hole diameter which is really the deciding factor in how a carbine will act with various reciprocating weights. The carbine buffer was initially designed to be used on milspec old school short barrel carbines (10"-11.5"), not because steel is simply cheaper, but because those barrels required a lighter buffer to function properly because they had far less dwell time than a 20" rifle system.

Im having failure to ejext with my ati ar pistol, not sure what length i believe it 8.5. Took ot to the range after installing a sig sba3 brace, after a quick 8 round burst i was having failure toneject on every round. I need help might try the buffer trick since i did installed a new brace which came woth it is buffer tube.

10.5 Carbine Length 556

Which buffer weight?

H2?

Great video. 👍👍 Decided to go with a h2 for my pistol build.

Subbed bro, thanks

On my Adams Arms piston 16” AR-15, I have to run an H3 buffer for all ammo. For hotter 5.56 NATO rounds I had to adjust the gas block to “suppressed” in combination with the H3 buffer to cycle and eject properly.
The gas port on this particular carbine must be extremely oversized.

Originally the rifle came with a 3oz buffer that had violent recoil and was actually wearing the receiver from the cam pin and wearing the buffer tube from bcg tilt. I couldn’t believe this AR was kicking so bad at first. H3 buffer and suppressed setting makes it smooth like it should feel.
BUT, even with the H3 only, the 5.56 casings will tear up the deflector (actually removing metal). Running on suppressed cleared that up and now ejects at 3 o’clock without tearing up deflector. If this were a DI gun, I’d have to install an adjustable gas block.

H2 will slow it down for sure. Another approach is adjustable gas block. If shooting suppressed I use a Superlative gas block. They cut down on gas in your face and felt recoil.

New 10.5 pistol length with a carbine buffer and I'm getting a 3:15to 3:30 ejections but I'm also getting a lot of gas blowout from the upper receiver. Is this normal???

Truly excellent. Thank you!

All DD rifles are over gassed for realibilty reasons