AR 15 & M16 Ejector & Extractor Jamming Issues – Round Not Loading Into Chamber

Amazing and disgusting at the same time. I wonder if you fully understand your weapon completely. The first thing is find an M16/AR-15 Armorers Complete Manual. Understanding the M16/AR is simple. My Drill Sergeants at Ft. Benning Infantry School and Basic completely over emphasized in cleaning the weapon. The bolt carrier is important like the gas key has to be cleaned with bore cleaner with a pipe cleaner and not moving because the 2 screws that hold it tight will cause gas loss which has come loose and not properly staked once tightened to 35-45 foot pounds with a torque wrench. Which means replacement of the gas key and check the threads of the bolt carrier. Or complete replacement of the bolt and carrier. From what I saw your Bolt and carrier is really corroded. Even though your bolt looks like crap from shooting that should not be the problem with a frozen ejector which can be helped with oil always applied to it. Next is replace the buffer spring. This can get weak over time. When they are weak, they cause bolt bounce which causes the extractor not to catch the rim of the cartridge. If the extractor doesn't catch the rim. To be on the safe side. Replace the entire bolt unit and install an extractor with a strong spring and O-ring to get positive grip. The ejector is usually replace the ejector and spring because they take much of the force of recoil and ejection along that it has to be constantly lubricated. If you had to polish the inside of the locking lug recess. It means your upper receiver is out of spec and not head spaced properly. All ARs have fixed head space. The upper receiver has a fixed notch which the barrel has a post that center when the barrel nut is torqued down good between 45-85 foot pounds. They should be flat and even by touch and feel. When this happens, this means that the upper receiver is too soft when torqued to the proper foot pounds. It will be obvious when you see the barrel index pin crush the upper receiver and the barrel extension extends past the upper receiver by a few thousandths of an inch. On normal M16/ARs is should be about 0.2000 forward for proper lock up and head space. This can be checked if you have a Go or No Go gauge. Otherwise it will destroy the upper receiver and you will get injured. What you should have done if it was a factory rifle is end it back to them under warranty from your department. Any modifications or fix it yourself could void the warranty. Worse is if your rifle was department issue or recommended purchase and did modifications to it and it fails on you. Liability policies can fall on you. Have your agency armorer fix it or send it back to the manufacturers under warranty. Law enforcement has many liability issues especially when it comes to duty rifles and other weapons comes under scrutiny under the court of law and liability.

Drilling out a gas port can ruin a barrel if not careful. Two things can wreck a bbl. First you have to us a stop to prevent the drill from hitting the opposite side of the bore. The other is the burr it will produce. The ones I have had to drill out were drilled under size by about 0.008". I then use a Dremel grinder to finish the bore. A small ball point tip can also be used to deburr the edge of the hole at the bore if it has a burr from the barrel maker. Drilling and even reaming has a tendency to push a burr into the barrel. If there is a burr left, it can chip off and embed into the bullet and scratch the hell out of the barrel. If you can get a brass welding rod to fit properly, it can be used to help shear off the burr by pulling it out of the newly bored hole. In fact, when I build any new upper, I always check for a bur before adding the gas block. I use an Aven USB microscope to look into the port and also use a cotton ball over a patch. When you run the patch down the barrel you can tell if there is a burr by strands of cotton left on the corner / burr on the bore at the gas port. Just don't screw up your new barrel by a careless mistake. Over polishing an ejector or any metal surface can cause it to gall up. A surface without some surface roughness can gall more at times. You already have the two critical differences required to prevent this. One is dissimilar materials and the other is a hardness difference. Think about surfaces treated with plating. Do not remove it by over polishing. Draw polishing it with appx a 900 grit soft stone will put a good lasting finish. Nickel Boron has a natural satin finish that will work great. If there are any high points it may not cause an issue but it can be removed if you wish to. Some plating can cause edges to build up more than on the surfaces away from the edge. Hard chrome is one of those. Nickel boron and most other plating used for surface treatment wear protection do not have this behavior during plating. Read more about it on some of the engineering site if you want a better understanding of it.
Robert
BSME

you need to clean that bolt group once in a while too meathead

Dude, your bolt is so filthy it’s fuzzy-lookin’!…and that’s after you’ve focused the camera.

Excellent video just subscribed. Any where a bullet passes through should be nice and smooth

Absolutely love the rickified tutorial.

Thank you brother I had the same issues and and now is fixed, again thanks

I also have an ejector that goes in and out … in and out… in and out,….

Once I saw how easy your ejector spring went in I knew that was my problem, It was and now the 5.56 ejects at the proper clock time.

More light, need more light!

Ugh…

Always amazes me how these Utube commandos are experts on unneeded firearm modifications. They don't care about firearm safety but they will tell you how to fuck up your ar.

Seems to me that the bolt needed to be thoroughly cleaned, the extractor and extractor spring replaced and the ejector and ejector spring and your problem is solved. Doing it all at once covers all the bases and the issues go away

You got a you tube commercial! Woo hoo!

Omg…..take the mag out, pull trigger to make sure its clear…wtf….and now lets use a dremal tool …dude

I have done 8 AR 15 builds. Not a lot and I’m certainly not a gunsmith. So here’s my advice that has worked perfectly every time. I buy a bolt rebuild kit from BCM. (Bravo Company USA). $30.00. Replaces the extractor, extractor pin & extractor spring, ejector, ejector pin & ejector spring. Also the gas rings. Toss the insert & O ring. I have recommended this to many people over the years. Fixes the problem every time. New or used. Should always have a spare kit. Also, I always have a second bolt that I have with me and switch back and forth roughly every 100 rds. Easy and makes me feel better since most problems seem to be with the bolt.

If you had the Hubble zooming in on your receiver that wouldn't help with that piss poor lighting.I tell folks if you are going to place your face on the Tube then you are also placing your creditability on the Tube too boot. If you aren't gonna do it right the first time then don't do it at all

I could see how a sharp edge on either of those parts could cause a failure to load. It only takes a slightly improper angle to jam it.
Thanks for the video, nice closeup of the bolt face.

You pulled the mag and pulled the trigger w/o making sure the chamber was clear.

Sweet

This video was worse than watching an ASPCA video. Jesus Christ.

toys or self defence. it's good to have junk guns for training. you learn how to push through issues. now be for you spend money on Frankenstein builds or low end rifles that have issues. save your cash and get a good platform that's reliable. I learn from others mistakes. my 6920 has been the best long gun that now I have 2. with that being said I work at a local gun range in Nevada and our customers put all guns through serious torcher test and I seen lots of guns fail. my boss can afford to replace the parts and we send them back to the manufacture and have it replaced. you can't. all you see is oh it needs a new buffer or lube or BCG. why should you make it work if it should work out the box. do your research

Worse video ever

Your lighting sucks, I can’t see anything you are showing

You probably broke a chunk of carbon loose amd that fixed the issue.

Thank you

why don't you try have better Lighting in a clean table so you can show the issue more clearly really couldn't see much also AR15 are nothing but pieces of crap !! I own 3 all high-end and every one of them would double feed and jam after a while even after putting an injector kit new ejector pin NewSpring new buffer tube spring still just Jam I even have an lwrc A6 A2 that was phenomenal untill I hit about 4000 rounds and now it would double feed in Jam! now my AK-47s they don't Jam ever so if I had to choose a gun it was the end of the world it's an AK-47 over a piece of crap AR-15 any day

No, I can't see. 
Wait.. right there, nope lost it. 
Still nothing.
Where?
Did you say donut?

You can’t put the weapon in safe unless you cycle the hammer back which would put a round in the chamber unless you open the weapon and manually put the hammer in battery then close the gun without a chambered round which is also not such a good idea because your putting undue pressure on the trigger spring that could cause hammer spring fatigue if done for long periods of time!

That table is a mess.

I bought a bunch of super bright flashlights from china. no more than a couple of bucks.  Has to be this brand.  they slide right in to the upper when BCG  is  removed. no play at all. these light shine several hundred yards and when they shine right through the barrel and chamber.   I will try to find one of the auctions and the name of this light.  they are a must have for someone that does videos or even cleaning checking the barrel.   I discovered this by accident.  okay thanks for your video.

Thank you for teaching us sir