
Let’s go over 10 to 15 things you need to check on a Cheap AR 15 before you ever take it to the Range. Because finding the Best AR 15 or the Best Budget AR 15 2025 involves more than just choosing the correct specs. You have to ensure that it’s within spec.
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Awsome KNOWING 👍🏿
This is really great thanks a lot I love to know stuff not be a dummy I just have more confidence and it makes stuff works better
I just purchased a Sig Sauer SM400 Tread. This is my first rifle. I need a sling and not sure which type of sling to purchase. Does anyone have any suggestions. I go to a range that I can shoot up to 300yds. What type of scope does anyone recommend that is good and affordable. Thank guys
I just found out about a brand called SLR Rifleworks. Have you heard of them and if so, what are your thoughts on their rifles?
I use a glue gun to create the “shock absorber” between upper and lower. It molds perfectly into the lower and removes any wobble
After owning many AR-15 from various different price points and manufacturers I've come to realize for a majority of people it does not pay to buy the expensive guns.
I guess I've just had dumb luck: I've bought 3 AR's for less than $1000 (all were Colts – the most recent purchase was a HB'd M4 Carbine about 8 years ago), and I built two. Only problem I've encountered, was one build had a habit of short-stroking with 55gr ammo. Turned out, the cause was a mis-labeled buffer spring that came from a local gun shop: when I returned it, we discovered that ALL of their buffer springs had been mis-labeled by a newbie in the store! Got the correct spring, problem gone.
I didn't use "gold plated" parts on my builds, but I didn't use "Hecho En Chine" parts, either: mil-spec or better, for me.
Personally, I don't worry about receiver slop: hold the rifle tight, you'll be fine.
Question… Have you ever done a video on the SIG AR Tread V2? If not why?
I traded a nice late model Subaru Forester for a Toyota 4runner that was several years older.
Also traded an Anderson AND a Radical for a Wilson that was several years old.
Quality is worth it.
Build your own
Such an underrated channel. Great video, my friend.
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Glad you're back doing vids! Keep them coming. Got alot of good ideas and goodies watching this channel. Blessings
THANK YOU for the tip on the Aero adjustment screw. I've had minute slop on my M5 that has annoyed me since assembly. I went and checked, and that screw was backed out almost all the way. Used some vibratite and made the fine adjustment needed (just kissing the lug) and now both uppers are rock solid. Very happy now. Cheers!
How does YouTube know I’m planning on building an Ar 😂😂
Always buy a cheap AR! Buy a PSA!
My cat’s first AR was a cheapie. She used it as a reference to build other units. She still has that original AR though 👍
Welcome back! This is a useful video. Good work!
After replacing gas rings, i put 1 magazine through for a function test. Gas rings won't hold the bolt up……but the gun runs fine 🤷♂️
I've seen guys run 1 gas ring before having issues 🤷♂️
Edit: …………………………………………………☝️
My first AR15 was a $250 tiger 🐅 rock 🪨 10 years ago……i upgraded everything…..only original part is the barrel 😅😅😅😅😅
Mine hasn't failed in 20 years. I did pay over $1000 though, it was right after the ban lift. Bushmaster.
If the grip comes loose, parts can be lost on the ground.
You didn't check trigger reset
I got a diamond back ar15 years ago, where do they rate ? Anyone..thx
Lock tight red brakes at 600° rockset breaks it to thousand degrees. Use rocks set if you were going to run the gun hard definitely use rockset
PSA is known for over torquing everything! Replacing a gas block can be a major undertaking. Their 12" BBL uppers are over gassed. Most need a buffer heavier than a standard carbine. Always be sure to check for burs before assembling. Springs may need to be flexed before installation. One of the ways to save money is to take the springs straight from heat treating to packaging. PSA handguards can be sharp, and uncomfortable to handle, so have paracord around to wrap the handguard. I use Spanish ring knots to keep the wrap from unwinding.
Ended up getting my first ar in a trade. Gave up a Springfield xd9. Hated that pistol. Love my rifle.
Did have to diagnose a cycling issue that turned out to be the gas block working itself loose.
Just set it back in place and used blue locktite. Been perfect since
Chapters man. Chapters
I still have my Stag Arms 15 I bought in California late 2000s, i pretty much de-Cali it minus the Thordsen featureless buttstock, for whatever reason I shot better with this thing on that a regular grip like I did in the Army, go figure 🤷🏽♂️
I was blessed to have gotten a PSA that wasn’t built on a Friday 😂 I checked and then my gunsmith checked everything for me. Everything was staked and properly installed as well as the upper and lower being in spec.
You run that risk with lower tier AR’s versus higher tier AR’s.
I ran three 1k round courses with it as a full stock PSA and it passed all three.
I went ahead and gutted it though and it now has all BCM internals and trigger. I got an FN M4 profile barrel (I love the M4 GWOT design) so it’s basically a PSA sleeper build. It went through 3 more 1k round classes and it is definitely more accurate now but it’s still a reliable workhorse. Through both ways it was run I suffered only 5 stoppages. 3 happened pre rebuild in my 1k round break in before the class and it was a lubrication issue. Hit the bolt with some remoil because it’s hot AF in Arizona in the summer, and it ran without a problem after that.
The other two stoppages were post rebuild from some old steel case ammo I had that felt underpowered while shooting it. I’m now about 4K rounds into the rebuild and I haven’t had any problems so far. The quality difference between the BCM parts and FN barrel are quite clear though. All the original parts are still good and live in backup parts kit I made for the range and field.
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Most gun shops (or on line buys) don't let you tear the gun apart and inspect it Best to ask others or get on a gun forum and do your homework.
The reaction rods are a solution to a non issue. Some people have tested them and even found they're harder on receivers and alignment pins because when you torque a barrel nut, you're twisting the nut and receiver around the barrel. The fin does eliminate that, but it's a very expensive tool that hobbyists don't actually need. A clam shell or upper receiver block is the more affordable and slightly better option. Either way, use the proper grease.
When I bought my first AR, all these possible issues you mentioned was exactly what I wanted to avoid. So rather than some $400 special, my first was a Ruger MPR for $850. Had it 3 years now, hundreds of rounds through it with no issues.
Thanks bro this really helps. I did an ar pistol build not long ago and theres something going on with the gas. It cycles 5 or 6 rounds and then stops. Iv already had to chamfer the barrel because the bcg would lock took a lot of force to remove. Ill try the things you suggested. I may even try to switch out my gas block and tube. 😂 Thats what i get for buying cheap.
Another great video. Becoming my favorite gun channel.
I must have gotten off lucky, I have a cheaper DPMS Oracle, the only problem I've had is the hand guard, and the stock has a bit of wiggle (not the nut/tube, but the polymer). it absolutely chews the steel casings and has a stupidly tight group for any AR/ammo combo with said steel ammo, and the trigger while its no match trigger it doesn't feel like a garbage budget trigger. I won the lottery on it, I just gotta break down and buy a drop in guard and see about replacing the stock. I'm not gonna go crazy on a AR that often found for $500
best ar video ive seen to date i'll definitely be checking out your courses
My first was a Colt M4 carbine (6920). I did all kinds of upgrades to it then started buying others to modify. I then returned the Colt to its factory settings for nostalgia. I still have it. It was $600.
For the gas block I don't have a bore scope. I usually use a piece of mechanics wire in the gas tube passage. I test it with compressed air and the bolt in the hole. Your way is definitely better but this has worked for me.