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HUNTING RIFLE 200 YARD ZERO AT 50 YARDS | Savage Axis XP 308 WINCHESTER

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There are some great reasons why a lot of people choose the 200 yard zero over the 100 yard zero for their hunting rifle. But sighting in at 200 yards there are more factors at play which makes it more difficult to call your shots “zeroed” especially on a hunting rifle platform. In this video I show you how you can get a 200 yard zero more accurately by doing it at 50 yards thus limiting the factors that affect your precision!

I also have another video (linked below) that I go into more detail in of WHY I choose the 200 yard zero over the 100 yard zero for my hunting rifle so be sure to check that out in the recommended videos links below.

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36 COMMENTS

  1. For the people that don’t want to watch the video and want to tap away at the keyboard for no reason:

    He was zeroing their rifle for 200 yards but used 50 yards as a starting point, using ballistics calculations, which can be found using various apps or website by in putting the data that’s published on the box.

    From there the man’s trued up his zero at the desired range. Assuming that he had the true velocity this is what everyone with any sort of sense does.

    But I guess the YT comment section is just cracked on over complicating things that are not.

    Hopefully he pins this or makes another video explaining this.

  2. I bought low cost savage rifles for all my kids growing . Back then axis was the lowest end and I never got an axis. All of the guns we got were tack drivers sub moa and some .5 moa right out the box. With reloads some were , really, about as good as a gun can shoot.

  3. I’ve always heard 25 yards you’ll b 2” high at 100 and good at 200. Recently I’ve heard do 30 yards. With all that said, I went out today and did groups at 100 then moved back w ammo I selected to hunt with. Not super hot for Az but after shooting I’d put it in truck w AC on while I went to check shots that I couldn’t tell with spotter. Got 4.25 miles in today 😂

  4. Totally disagree. I've zeroed many clients rifles and its just not a good way to go
    I zero my rifle at 200 yards, then recheck it at 100, at 75 and 50. You can sight it in at 50 and hit bullseye and be of quite a bit at 100.

  5. I have that exact rifle, except a heavy barrel and I did add a muzzel break. with a 3×9 sig sauer scope,,. had the weapon now for 7 years and it is dead on and keeps its zero.. love savage with heavy barrel. simple the best for under 500

  6. When a scope says (1-click 1/4 moa at 100 yards) ,,,, if u sight it in at 50 yards,, is that gonna be more clicks to get that 1/4 inch adjustment at 50 yards,,, or is one click gonna be more then 1/4 "

  7. A rifle when shot is as stable as you make it !!!. A cheap rifle ( 300 dollars ) can be just as accurate as an expensive rifle ! An example …..I bought a C Z 600 rifle for 600 dollars. The accuracy is saddening ! At 100 yards it shoots 5 inch groups ?!?!?!?! An that is after extensive trials of different weight bullets powder / loads……and seating depths. I have yet to get a group under 3 inches at 100 yards ! I NEVER buy a rifle by how it LOOKS !!!!!!! Ive found most of my more accurate shooting rifles the cost of the rifle is below 500 dollars. My 22 long rifle is more accurate at 200 yards with 50 inches drop then many high power rifles !

  8. What does your retical look like?

    I have a Savage Edge in .308. But don't know how to sight it in with a duplex scope. I was thinking of sighting in at 150. Then I will assume the spot where the duplex drops from wide too small will be my holdover for 200 and up top wide to small line is 100. So that is 100…150…200 yards. I will just have to luck it in for the sides guess.

  9. I have a 70 year old pawn shop Remington 740 in 30-06. I know semi-auto are not accurate or are they. I have always sighted in 2" high at 100 yards. Your video is the first to describe the process so well. This old rifle can actually shoot 1" groups at 100 yards if I do my job. I don't need a rangefinder to hit vitals under 300 yards.

  10. I zero high at 100 (depends on barrel length, velocities and caliber) to have a max point blank @ X distance. My 30-30 is zeroed exactly 2” high with my preferred hunting load and gives me a max range of about 200 yards. At 200 with my 30-30 my point of impact is roughly 4.5-5” below my point of aim and for whitetail that is my zero.

  11. They need to bring back the handheld Weaver Scope Sight-In Guide that was available into the 1980's. It lists where to sight-in cartridges from .22Long Rifle Hi Speed to the .458 Winchester Magnum at 25 yards and takes into account the height of the scope above the rifle's bore. It also lists their approx. muzzle velocities. It then shows the impact above or below zero at ranges from 50 to 350 yards in 50 yard increments.
    Example: A 30-06 with a 180gr bullet at 2700fps sighted at 25 yards is 1" high@50 yards, 2¼" high@100 and 150 yards, ¾" high@200 yards, 2½" low@ 250 yards, and any kind of ethical and sportman-like hunter would stop right there and attempt to get closer.

  12. This method correlates closely to the way our military sights in the M16 rifle. They are sighted at 25 meters on the "Zero" settings and youre good to go by simply clicking the rear sight to the longer range settings past 200 yards (meters?).

  13. I have had great success with a method that dates back to the 1950's. Some refer to it as the Velocity Sight-in Method.
    1. What is the approx. velocity of your ammo in fps, ex. 2500fps?
    2. Divide that number by 100. Now you have "25".
    3. Set your target at that range in yards and sight-in dead on. In this case, 25 yards.
    4. For the farther zero range, multiply the sight in range by "7.5"; in this case, 25×7.5=187.5 yards will be very close to dead on.

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